NO SOUL IN A GHOST TOWN Not even the Holy Week exodus can empty out a mega city like Manila, especially not now with inflation up. This photo of España Boulevard in Manila was taken in March 2020 a few days after a lockdown was imposed on the entire country against the spread of Covid-19 (Noel Pabalate)

Unique among its neighbor countries, the Philippines is the only one in Southeast Asia with Christianity as the main religion. According to a Stanford University study, around 92 percent of the Philippine population identifies as Christian. A 2015 Global Attitudes survey by Pew Research Center, meanwhile, reveals that nine out of 10 Filipinos consider religion important in their lives.

As a devout people, we pour a lot of effort into pomp celebrations, including Eucharistic Masses, processions, theatrical shows, parades, as well as cultural and religious rituals. Of the biggest religious rites, Pasko ng Pagkabuhay or Easter Sunday, commemorating the resurrection of Jesus Christ, is right around the corner.

FAMILY BONDING Staycation at Makati Shangri-la

This year, Easter Sunday eclipses another national holiday, Araw ng Kagitingan (Day of Valor), which honors both Filipino and American war veterans who fought against Japanese invaders during the defense of Bataan in the Second World War. The rare instance of the two holidays coinciding urged President Marcos to extend the non-working holiday until Monday, April 10.

Many Filipinos choose to spend the Holy Week, the days leading up to Easter Sunday, in provinces, perhaps because these are some of the best places to get away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life and to reflect on oneself as well as on the sacrifices of Christ.

CIRCLES OF FUN The Easter tradition of egg hunts originated in 16th-century Germany

Provinces such as Bulacan, Malolos, Rizal, Pampanga, and Marinduque, among others, are usually where the action is at, host to strings of traditional activities from the Senakulo, the staged re-enactment of Christ’s passion, to Pabasa, an uninterrupted chanting of the early 16th-century epic poem narrating the life, passion, death, and resurrection of Jesus.

Some are, however, unable to travel out of the metro or simply prefer to observe Holy Week and Easter Sunday in Manila. But what is the Easter experience in the capital region usually like?

MINOR BASILICA The Manila Cathedral inside the walled city of Intramuros (Jui-Chi Chan)

In Manila, an average day in April ranges from a high of 33°C (92°F) to a low of 24°C (76°F). In layman’s terms, these are “very hot” to “warm” temperatures, respectively—in real feels, more like 45, as all it takes to sweat a bucket is to stand still in the heat in two minutes. This Sunday, the weather is expected to be partly cloudy but with temperatures of 33°C. It’s going to be just another hot summer day in the Philippines.

People are either at the beach or in the provinces for most of the Holy Week, making Manila a little less crowded than usual. Manileños can enjoy the brief peace and quiet of the city at this time and driving around the city can be quite a meditative exercise, with the streets open wide and quiet.

SQUID PRO QUO Pulpo from Gallery by Chele, one of the very few fine dining restaurants open on Easter Sunday

Have your Easter Vigil at some of the most popular Churches in Manila namely, the Manila Cathedral, Quiapo Church, Binondo Church, San Augustin Church, Malate Church, Ermita Church, San Sebastian Church Manila, Santa Cruz Church, Guadalupe Church... Aside from these shrines, leisure spots, especially malls, especially airconditioned malls, would normally be packed.

Families tend to stay in nice hotels like The Manila Hotel, Sofitel, Diamond Hotel, Conrad Manila, and Lime Resort Manila along Manila Bay, Nobu, Okada, Hyatt Regency, Marriot, and Nuwa around the Entertainment City in Pasay, as well as New World, The Peninsula Manila, and Grand Hyatt, in Makati, to name a few. One can never go wrong with a staycation as these top hospitality brands generally have everything under one roof. There are special packages available, but of course, maybe it’s too late to book them now, unless, of course, this being the season, you believe in miracles.

GRAND DAME Façade of The Manila Hotel

Adopted from the west, Easter egg hunts are also all the rage in Manila. The search for colorful eggs symbolizes the rebirth of Jesus, new beginnings, and hope. For children, the hotels above and famous malls like SM and Ayala typically have Easter egg hunt events and other surprises.

AFTERNOON DELIGHT Conrad Hotel's C Lounge tea special

Fish spotting is another pastime to consider as the Manila Ocean Park is open the entire Holy Week. For thrillseekers, the largest indoor, airconditioned climbing gym, Climb Central Manila, is also open. The iconic theme park Star City operates on Easter Sunday as well, along with Alabang’s trampoline park WiiJUMP Philippines, and the interactive art exhibition in Pasay, The Dessert Museum.
There are long breaks for almost all tourist destinations and museums in the metro. Among those closed are the Ayala Museum, Metropolitan Museum, Museo Pambata, and establishments in Intramuros, except for Fort Santiago, which is open, even on April 10.

FOLLOW THAT TERRAIN OF THOUGHT Climb Central Manila is in Mayflower Street, Greenfield District, Mandaluyong

Majority of the popular fine dining restaurants are closed like Toyo, Hapag, Metiz, and Linamnam, so your next best bet is the restaurants found in the accommodations earlier mentioned. In-house restaurants at these hotels are guaranteed open and, in fact, have promos related to the holiday. But if you insist on a tasting menu, Gallery by Chele is open for Holy Week, except last Maundy Thursday.

Whether you are staying in Manila, going to the province or the beach, just remember the essence of Easter Sunday, which is to pray, contemplate, and, like Christ, have a moment of self-renewal.