Featured image: CELEBRATING CULTURE Honored to be wearing traditional Kalinga clothing with these amazing women (from left) Bagoyan's Jasmine Baac, TPB COO Marga Nograles, author Carol RH Malasig, TPB's Apples Aberin

Continuing our sojourn to the north this week, we find ourselves in the province of Kalinga. Nestled in the Cordillera mountain range, it is known for its vibrant culture and weaving traditions. Iconic to the region is Whang-od, a traditional tattoo artist who continues to practice her craft even after surpassing her centenary. Her full sleeves of body art, which extend to the upper regions of her décolletage are a nod to her tribe’s ancestry known for bravery and producing many fierce warriors.

There’s a hint of mystery that adds to the allure of the place. Surrounded by mountains, peppered with waterfalls and rough rivers, Kalinga beckons.
No longer as remote as it used to be, thanks to the availability of flights to Tuguegarao, Kalinga feels much closer to the rest of the Philippines, especially Manila. We took an early flight with Cebu Pacific, arriving less than an hour later. After an additional hour of land travel, we found ourselves in Tabuk, the province’s capital, just in time for breakfast. Davidson Hotel served us a local spread, but a tray containing chicken wrapped in foil and cooked in ginger was the most popular among our group. It remained nameless even after we quizzed the staff, yet the dish is still unforgettable.

MEET NANAY PACITA She's a skilled weaver carrying on the rich tradition of handwoven textiles in her home. Her dedication and talent are evident in every intricate pattern she creates

One of the highlights of our trip was a visit to Naneng Heritage Village, the oldest settlement in Kalinga, which is home to a community preserving its cultural heritage. There, we had the opportunity to witness a traditional dance performed by the village’s children. Their talent and dedication were truly heartwarming, as they skillfully moved along to the music, demonstrating the importance of keeping their culture alive. A short walk brought us to the village square, passing simple, sturdy houses built using hardwood like narra. The village offered our group merienda consisting of rice cakes with latik called inandila and sweet coffee, which we enjoyed as we watched the Chico River from a distance. The oldest church in Tabuk—some even say in the whole of Kalinga—is also at Naneng. Founded by a Belgian priest in the early 1920s, the bell, we were told, brings you luck when rung.

KALINGA WEAVES Every thread tells a story—these beautiful fabrics are made by the skilled hands of Kalinga's women weavers

The next day, we made our way to Lubuagan. The municipality was the country’s capital for exactly 73 days. Then-president Emilio Aguinaldo made it the seat of government before his escape and eventual capture. From the town square, where we indulged in turon and coffee and visited stalls of handwoven fabric, we went to the village of Mabilong. Here, we were welcomed into the homes of locals to see how weaving is truly a part of everyday life. We met Nanay Pacita, a weaver who has been making fabric using a backstrap loom for decades to help support her family. With a spring in her step and a smile on her weathered yet beautiful face, she showed us her work station in their home. She sits outside, on a veranda leading to their door on most days, weaving intricate patterns while enjoying the cool mountain breeze.

SEEKING TREASURES Premier fashion designer Mark Bumgarner supporting traditional weavers in Kalinga. Their fabric will be used in his very own designs (Yuki Higson)

We then drove to Awichon Cultural Village higher up into the mountains and through winding roads that provide spectacular views of the valley. We were treated to lunch brought over from Kalinga’s slow food capital of Pasil. Don’t ever leave without having some of its heirloom rice, pako salad, and the vinungor or bamboo shoots with chili.

This visit to Kalinga was organized by the Tourism Promotions Board (TPB). Its chief operating officer, Marga Nograles, was also part of the group, fresh from the country’s successful participation to the Internationale Tourismus Börse in Germany. Without a hint of jet lag from the Berlin trip, where she joined Tourism Secretary Christina Frasco’s delegation and reported big wins for the country at the world’s biggest travel fair, Nograles performed with the youth of Lubuagan in a couple of traditional dances while engaging with the locals.

COMMUNITY-BASED TOURISM TPB COO Marga Nograles immersing in Kalinga's vibrant culture with Lubuagan's traditional dancers. A true celebration of the Philippines' rich and diverse heritage (From TPB)

This visit wasn’t just to re-introduce Kalinga to travelers but also to encourage the creativity of the local weaving industry while continuing to produce quality products through marketing seminars for various weaving associations and cooperatives in the province. “We are truly honored to be here with all of you,” Nograles told the weavers prior to the distribution of kits containing thread and other materials they could use. “We want to let you know that we will share this with the world and ultimately we want to let you know that we are the Tourism Promotions Board and we are here to support you every step of the way.”

FOR A BOUNTIFUL HARVEST Preserving traditions through dance in Lubuagan

Nograles also shared the Frasco’s seven-point agenda to improve tourism in the country, which follows a holistic approach, ensuring no one, especially in the smaller communities, will be left behind. “Ultimately, at the end of the day, everything that we are doing is to give livelihood to the Filipino people,” she said, relaying a message from Frasco. Community-based tourism is also something Nograles is eager to push for as it gives travelers the chance to really get to know the Philippines through its culture and age-old traditions.

As we left Kalinga, we were struck not only by its natural beauty but also by the warmth and hospitality of its people. The province’s dedication to preserving its culture and supporting its communities is truly inspiring. One can only hope that more people will have the opportunity to experience the magic of Kalinga and support its efforts to preserve its cultural heritage for generations to come.