She had been a long-forgotten dream, only subsisting in faint memories of a ‘90s family road trip. Today, her allure grows more than ever, thanks to the monuments and men (and women) who have shaped her.
More than 20 years after I first visited Ilocos Norte, I returned with a lens of naturalism and sustainability upon the invitation of the provincial government. Needless to say, I was pleased with what I saw—and felt.
As I write this, I can only remember the awe, majesty, power, fear, and smallness my companions and I felt as we ventured to the province’s magnificent geological sites. Perhaps, by sharing these new memories, you will be enticed to revisit Ilocos Norte as well.
Windmills along Ilocos Norte shoreline. (Photo by Kal Joffres)
The must-see: Paoay Sand Dunes
The La Paz Sand Dunes in Paoay, a geological marvel, was first on our agenda. Declared a National Geological Monument in 1993, the 85-square-kilometer natural wonder boasts a rare coastal landform molded by the interactions of ocean, river, and wind through time.
Going into this narrow desert made me feel like being in another country like Dubai, or even another planet, like the fictional Arrakis. The 4x4 ride made our journey up and down the dunes thrilling and enjoyable.
Riding across the 'desert' in the La Paz Sand Dunes, Paoay. (Photo by Kal Joffres)
The underrated: Currimao coral wall
Hopping on the coral rock formations along the coastline of Currimao, we waited for the sun to set on the horizon. We tiptoed on rocky spikes and outcrops, avoiding the thorny pockets of grass that swarmed the natural pillars. The sunset was beautiful, but it was the amazing micro-ecosystem on the rocks that caught my attention.
Hopping on the coral rock formations in Currimao. (Photo by Kal Joffres)
Another view of the coral wall. (Photo by Kal Joffres)
The emerging: Solsona-Apayao Road
The next day, a couple of us woke up early in the morning to go to Solsona-Apayao Road. They came back and quickly sowed envy among us stragglers. A "majestic Venus," they said. The mountains along the road give you a feeling of smallness comparable to the Alps.
According to Ilocos Norte Governor Matthew Marcos Manotoc, this was the next destination to be developed for the province and his personal favorite for camping and picnics.
A ‘majestic Venus’ — the view of the mountains along Solsona-Apayao Road, Ilocos Norte. (Photo by Kal Joffres)
The uncharted: Adams and the Kalbario-Patapat National Park
On our final day, we visited Adams, a small municipality which is home to some 2,000 people composed of Ilocanos, Yapayaos, Immallods, Kankanaeys, and Bago tribes. On the way there, we passed by the coastal Patapat Viaduct and the jungles of the Kalbario-Patapat National Park.
We found out that only about five (F-I-V-E) full-time rangers protect the 3,800-hectare natural park. While astonishing, this can be expected, since the national average is one ranger to 4,000-5,000 hectares of protected area, according to the Department of Environment and Natural Resources.
In Masungi Georeserve in the province of Rizal, where I help lead environmental campaigns, we have an average of one ranger for every 30 hectares of conservation area. It has always been our advocacy to promote the engagement of civil society groups and the private sector to fill in these glaring environmental management gaps.
For this to happen, barriers such as short-term tenure of NGOs, professional squatting syndicates, violence against environment defenders, and resistance to innovation should be removed just like in Costa Rica. Only then can we leap into the kind of environmental governance and collaboration our country deserves.
Hanging bridge in Adams, Ilocos Norte. (Photo by Kal Joffres)
Social entrepreneurship in the flesh
Amid the magnificence of its monuments, it’s the people of Ilocos Norte that made it a joy to visit. I was pleasantly surprised by its Tourism Ambassador Program, wherein the youth including those out-of-school, are engaged as all-around guides for visitors in each destination.
Twenty-two-year old John, our tourism ambassador at the Kapurpurawan Rock Formation in Burgos, told me that he looks forward to his month-long contract with the local government every year.
I also had the chance to eat seaside at Evangeline’s Pagudpud. According to our gracious guide throughout the trip, Arlene, its owners only employ people with disabilities in the kitchen. I found this a fantastic example of a social enterprise that provides livelihood access to underserved groups.
A rainbow over Pagudpud Beach. (Photo by Kal Joffres)
Based on what I saw, the majesty of Ilocos Norte will never fade. Perhaps, it is only beginning to truly shine. One thing is clear—with solid examples of sustainable and inclusive tourism—the North is headed in the right direction.