Local start-up brand gives new life to vintage kimonos by turning them into pants and more

When we talk about Japan, what usually comes to mind are its delicious food, anime and manga, and distinct style. Japan is known for its Harajuku street fashion and kawaii looks, but its legacy in fashion began long before these contemporary styles. The traditional kimono is one of the world’s most recognizable garments, merging art and style with its unique silhouette and vibrant prints. It’s so iconic that designers from various countries have created new looks inspired the beloved garment. The latest to do so is Mimi Dumalaog.

Through her startup fashion label Etsuka, Mimi transforms vintage kimonos into pants, skirts, and tops. She sources her kimonos from thrift shops in Nagoya City, Japan. Some have also been donated by friends and members of her communities in Japan and Manila. The idea for her brand came from a 90-day challenge she and her husband, Harry, embarked on. The challenge was to build a small business valued at ₱10 million in 90 days, with just a ₱10,000 starting capital.

Unlike other fashion creatives, Mimi didn’t study design. Instead, she is a Political Science graduate, a PhD student in International Development, and a cofounder of a tech company that helps business owners create video content

“I never had fashion training, but I’ve been a consumer my whole life,” Mimi tells Style Weekend. “When I gained weight, I experienced how difficult it is to find pants that fit someone who is five-feet tall with a midsize body. I want to change that. I may not have the training, but I’ve dealt with this issue long enough to have an idea of how to solve it.” 

The process of transforming kimonos into new articles of clothing begins with taking the measurements of her clients. With her own shopping challenges in mind, Mimi designs her pieces to flatter people who are often underserved by the market, particularly plus-size and petite individuals. At the heart of her brand is the idea of “reinvention,” which applies both to her clients and the custom pieces she creates.

“I preserve the soul of the kimonos. I believe the soul of the kimono is in its pattern and crest. The patterns are hand-painted and hand-embroidered,” she explains. “Imagine the time it took the artists to create them. I want to preserve their work for years to come—just in a different form.”

According to her, the crest is the symbol of the family wearing the kimono. It’s passed from generation to generation. That’s why she always asks her sewers to incorporate it somewhere in the design. Fun fact, one of her clients researched the crest of per pants. And to their surprise, it belongs to a family of ninjas.

Currently, her clients can’t choose the fabric or the specific kimono to be used for their pieces, as this would be too operationally challenging. She only allows it during bazaars, where people can see the pieces in person. To learn more about Mimi’s work and the prices of Etsuka’s pieces, visit @etsuka_fashion on Instagram.

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