Statement: Heritage
Gucci’s fall-winter 2023 collection reflects on the brand as a cultural constant and reinvigorates the influence of the visionaries that fronted it, paving the way for a new dimension to its heritage.
The silhouette recalls Gucci’s erotic and glamorous form language of the 1990s and early 2000s, but paints it in the electrically sumptuous color palette of the 2010s. Playing with the familiar feeling of returning to a dimension you once knew only to experience it bigger or smaller, tailoring magnifies while shirting and two-piece tops and skirts appear minimized. Suits in wool or leather cut an oversized frame with voluminous shoulders, dropped necklines, and low-riding trousers. Skirts appear in longline or knee-length expressions in sheer fabrics and embellished lace suggestive of lingerie. The idea echoes in a crystal-encrusted GG metal bra that sets for tone exaggerated cocktail jewelry that drapes around necklines and busts and cascades dramatically to the floor.
The sensory approach is amplified in tactile oversized knits in brushed mohair and looped yarns, and in coats and lapels crafted in oscillating shearling or faux fur dipped in vibrant hues. Created according to the principles of savoir-faire, eveningwear conjures the shapes of hearts—a symbol of the house’s core—in the drop-waist skirt of a double-duchesse bustier dress, in the effervescence of a dress fully embroidered in contrast plume, and in the bust line of an Empire gown. Colored visor sunglasses allude to a classic Gucci flacon, allowing the wearer to see the world through Rush-tinted glasses, while bearskins conceived in plume cement the exuberance of a collection driven by the enduring creativity that courses through the veins of Gucci.
New takes on the rounded trapezoid chain bag are adorned with the horsebit and interpreted in padded, shearling, crystal and contrast-leather manifestations. Honoring an archival icon, the Jackie bag appears in its original shape but softened in construction and adapted in two-tone colors and GG-embossed leather. The classic Gucci loafer is elevated on rubber soles, while snow boots originally designed for the 1960s’ ski collection re-emerge, tacked up with horsebits. Kitten heels dominate square sandals, wide-shaft boots, and tigerhead-embellished sandals inspired by the Dionysus bag. Boxing boots and basketball sneakers inject the collection with a faint hint of sportswear.
Homage to the Ivy League spirit
Informed by artistic director Nigo’s love of England, Kenzo is launching its first collaboration with Hunter, the progressive British heritage brand. The collection is a nod to the “East meets West” connection rooted in the brand’s fall/winter 2023 season, as well as an homage to the Ivy League spirit referenced in the collection.
The Kenzo x Hunter capsule collection features high and mid-top shapes inspired by 1960s duck-hunting boots, available in a rich mix of rubber, suede, and leather. The Hunter color palette of army green and black is shaken up by a graphic injection of “Kenzo red” and the ever-iconic Boke flowers of the brand.
For men, a utilitarian lace-up ankle boot in army-green leather, with recycled nylon upper, shows traditional zigzag lacing across the front. An exaggerated red sole and black shell foxing are crafted from FSC-certified rubber from responsibly managed forests. Detailing includes all-over Boke flower outsoles and logo branding. “Hunter” is spelled out on the tongue while “Kenzo Paris” appears at the back of the upper.
For women, Kenzo x Hunter has issued an all-black “ankle-to-calf” boot in quilted, recycled nylon and a leather upper. It features the same shell foxing, oversized sole, and logo branding as its men’s counterpart, and the Boke outsole detailing appears in white.
For women and men, a utilitarian ankle boot that echoes the construction of both aforementioned styles features an upper made from felt, leather and a recycled polyester upper. A cover gaiter complements the shoe, available in a combination of army green and red, as well as in an all-black version.
Lastly, the tall unisex original Wellington boot from 1956 has been revisited with a traditional Kenzo Boke flower featured on the side. The Kenzo x Hunter Wellington boot is crafted from natural, strong, resilient vulcanized rubber with a matte finish. Playful Hana dots appear on the lining, made from recycled polyester. The Hunter box logo is placed at the top front. The boot is available in black and army green for men and women and red for women.
The Kenzo x Hunter collaboration is available in Kenzo APAC stores and hunterboots.com.
A bold twist on the wrist
The new Fendigraphy watch designed by Delfina Delettrez Fendi, artistic director of jewelry, is the latest addition to the category and to the Fendigraphy family. Designed to match the sophisticated attitude of the women’s collections, the watch is linked to the bold Fendigraphy hobo bag, first launched with the Fendi women’s spring/summer 2022 collection and ever-present since then with the statement Fendi metal lettering.
Here, the signature Fendi logo wraps around the wrist, creating a jewel watch that disguises as a precious bangle bracelet. Combining Fendi’s craftmanship and attention to details, the D letter encapsulates the watch dial, revealed behind a sapphire crystal.
Showcasing Fendi’s exquisite savoir-faire, the Fendigraphy watch is declined in two versions: one in full stainless-steel and the other one in leather and steel.
In the stainless-steel version, the watch case is formed by the Fendi letters framed into squared plates in full polished stainless-steel, coloured in full gold or declined in silver with the golden script. For the leather and steel style, the same golden Fendi lettering is applied on black or dove calf leather straps, creating a powerful statement watch that at the same time expresses the brand’s mastery in materials. Available at Fendi boutiques worldwide. fendi.com