Heritage, transmission, and timelessness are at the core of Louis Vuitton’s spring/summer 2022 collection for women
Three galleries of the Louvre namely the Peristyle Turgot, Colbert, and the more notable Passage Richelieu, the very pathway Louis Vuitton used to reach the appartements of Empress Eugenie for whom he was the exclusive trunk maker, set the stage for this year’s presentation of the women’s spring/summer 2022 collection.
This season, Nicolas Ghesquière plays on the concept of time, on how fashion intersects with it and doubles back. The creative director explores the tension of opposing forces, of present and past, creation and deconstruction, couture and casual, night and day. The collection focuses on the desire for transmission and timelessness, which the high-end luxury fashion brand epitomizes.
The iconic passageway, with its nebulous atmosphere, was decked out in a cascade of antique chandeliers hung above the runway lined by mirrors. Along it, the guests were seated on Napoleon III chairs, ready for the gala. Models walked to the theatrical song of Yoann Lemoine, also known as Woodkid, into the mystery of the night, like vampires in a classical movie. This marks 10 years of collaboration between the music editor and Nicolas.
The theme honors the 200th birth celebration of the company’s founder, and the HBO series Irma Vep, starring the house’s friend Alicia Vikander. The upcoming program, for which Nicolas designed the costumes, is an adaptation of Olivier Assayas’ 1996 movie of the same title, inspired by the first silent film series Les Vampires (1915) by Louis Feuillade. The vampire figure actuated a phantasmagoria toward the notion of a grand ball, its ceremonial aspect, and sensual infatuation.
The lineup is composed of embroidered ball gowns, urban wardrobe, and formal wear juxtaposed with twisted humble uniforms.
In 19th-century style, richly embellished dresses were girded at the hips, and while they would’ve been weighed down with crinolines, the gowns fairly bounced as the models in open-toe satin wrestling boots strutted down the runway. These embroidered ball gowns, called ellipse dresses, are very light and ethereal, crafted from shredded chiffon, worn with tails or spences, and incorporating slashes of sewing.
Urban wear takes on a ceremonial guise, breaking the boundaries between day and night wear. Popular fabric is mixed with elaborate shapes in a dissolution of functions and codes. Denim, which is a key show statement, is made of organic cotton.
Tailoring holds a special place in Nicolas’ shows with a masculine or feminine vibe. Formal pieces include sleeveless jackets with Brandebourg-like details.
The lineup is composed of embroidered ball gowns, urban wardrobe, and formal wear juxtaposed with twisted humble uniforms.
The catalog also offers a wide range of delicate, see-through, and feminine looks that play on layering.
The humble uniform becomes sumptuous. Inspired by different periods, twisted uniforms mark a detour, paired with ’80s polka dots style blouses and 19th-century style ruffle collars worked with metal wires.
Elevated craftsmanship is demonstrated through the reinterpretation of LV fashion icons Cannes, Dauphine, Bucket PM, and Petite Malle. For the latest bags, Nicolas Ghesquière created the Swing, a unique expression among on-trend elongated formats. It draws inspiration from the famous Pochette Metis and is all about East-West proportions. The iconic S-lock exposure, treated in a substantial mix of golden and silver finishings, is no exception to this stretched interpretation.
In 2014, the Petite Malle was made as an ode to the maison’s heritage. It has been reworked into an ultra-desirable East-West format in celebration of Louis Vuitton’s 200th year. Same features and craftsmanship, but different attitude and style.
Meanwhile, the campaign shot by British fashion photographer David Sims exudes a ’60s pop-vibe and sees actors Stacy Martin, Samara Weaving, Agathe Rousselle, and Hoyeon, together with singer Lous and the Yakuza, to name a few, against dazzling backdrops. Captured in dance-like motion, a hint to the ball-inspired gowns of the collection represents the intemporal and confident aesthetic of the spring-summer 2022 collection.
In the Philippines, Louis Vuitton is located at Greenbelt 3 and The Shoppes at Solaire Resort and Casino.