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Manila Bulletin devider Lifestyle devider Rebels in Paris

Rebels in Paris

Published Mar 15, 2022 07:17 pm

Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski takes a new direction for Hermès ready-to-wear

After the previous season’s demonstration at Le Bourget airport, Hermès returns to the Garde Républicaine for its autumn runway excursion, to minimize the theatrics and allow the clothes to shine.

Throughout the Paris Fashion Week, several motifs struck a consistent chord. Some of them are showing some skin, dressing with ease, simplicity, and youthfulness. Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski seems to get the trend.

The creative director creates a moodier, unapologetic lineup for the fall-winter 2022 collection of Hermès. Pockets of surprises, meticulously crafted to reflect the Hermès woman's concept of sex appeal, set the tone for the entire presentation. The catalog is more body-conscious than ever, following the body-positive movement.

Inky black established the tone for the fashion parade with the opening look: a form-fitting striped jacket on skirt combo. Vertical lines served as a homage to the horizon, replicated on the following pieces.

The silhouettes are mainly characterized by micro hemlines, mini shorts and dresses that stretch the legs and treat riding boots in a different way—looks that take the eye through a maze of sultriness.

‘She feels powerful today. Her willowy stride follows a path that could never be undone. Not today. Not ever… Wide-eyed, happy, she will walk vaporously ensconced in a loose-fitting, lichen-blue sheepskin reversible coat—powerful, in synergy with her own intensity’ –Excerpt from the show notes

The French fashion designer was obsessed with “voyelles,” rule-breaking Parisian girls who made the Left Bank their haunt in the ’50s. These voyelles were skilled in the art of rebellion, doing the opposite of what the world expected of them.

Nadège pushes the boundaries with must-have exquisite slim fit coats, soft buttery blazers, and fluid leather tops that moved with the wearer. There’s a minimal matte black leather zip-up coat, easier shapes in white and brown, as well as jackets and coats that coalesces loden wool with leather paneling and piping.

The idea of athleisure for the house’s customer base is elevated.

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ready-to-wear Nadège Vanhee-Cybulsk Winter hermes collection
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