When Maison Kitsuné was first set up in 2002 by Gildas Loaëc, Masaya Kuroki, and the design company Åbäke, it quickly became a hip Japanese-French label that specialized in EDM (electronic dance music) and street fashion. Musical acts such as Phoenix, Parcels, La Roux, and Two Door Cinema Club were at some point in their careers connected with the Kitsuné label.
Kitsuné is the Japanese word for "fox," an animal that’s considered to have strong magical properties and intelligence in Japanese folklore. And in 2019, the Maison expanded the brand with their first Café Kitsuné located in Paris—and, since then, locations have popped up in Japan, South Korea, New York, Shanghai, Bangkok, Jakarta, and, as of this week, Manila!
Brought in by Avin Ong and Fredley Group of Companies, Café Kitsuné is a cool, post-modern cafe that successfully blends the best of French and Japanese cultures. While in Paris, it’s more of grab-and-go, Avin astutely understood the local café culture and set up the first Café Kitsuné in such away that there are several tables where groups can sit down, loiter with intent, and imbibe the hip interiors that Chat Fores helped execute to the Kitsuné specifications.
Smartly, given the deep cut of the space, the kitchen has been expertly hidden along the middle of the Café; and what’s visually appealing, the vitrine housing the luscious desserts is what you’ll view as you traverse to the inner sanctum of the Café. It’s really like you’ve been transported to a trendy section of Paris or Tokyo, when cocooned in the dining area. I know several were complementing the interiors and the red hue of the back wall.
The Green Apple & Mint fizzy drink, and the Yuzu Honey were my first introductions to what Café Kitsuné has on offer, and they were refreshing and unique! While I know others will wax rhapsodic about the coffee, the lattes, and the desserts, take your time to check out these drinks and see what I’m talking about, you won’t regret it!
The seared salmon, which is crispy skin-on salmon, soy bean, gravy, tomato butter sauce, and potatoes was the main course I’d recommend. The descriptor of crispy skin was spit on and if done consistently, will be what several diners will come back to Kitsuné for. The Chicken Confit had crispy skin on it as well, and it’s a leg sitting on glazed mashed potatoes.
There are quick bite Sando sandwiches—egg or pork, soba noodles, tuna tartare, French onion soup, granola as well. The café will eventually be open for breakfast, but, for now, it will open at 10:00 a.m.
As for the desserts, the Paris-Brest was Issa’s favorite, as it’s hazelnut mousse with chocolate on an almond choux pastry. It’s a classic, and many may not know it’s named for a biking event, the race from Paris to Brest in Brittany. The French have always been big on biking, hence, the Tour de France.
The matcha èclair is a wonderful choice, and the yuzu macaron cake is the one I’ll try the next time I’m at the café. The strawberry shortcake is subtle on the sweetness and heavy on the cream, so if that sounds like your type of dessert, then go for it. And don’t forget the fox-shaped shortbread that’s emblematic of Café Kitsuné’s provenance.
From my conversation with Avin, I understand there’ll be number of Cafe Kitsuné’s planned for later in the year and in early 2023, with several upscale malls eager to add this hip eatery to their line-up of food and beverage options.