This chef whips up a menu of memories with his dad taking him through the wet markets for fish and oysters, liempo, and a vegetable dish on Sunday morning

By Don Baldosano

Growing up, Sunday would always be the day of the week food would be the focal point of everything, and it would always be headed by my father. The day would typically start with him him walking me around the wet market, getting a whiff of cigarettes and coffee in styro cups from the vendors, along with the funky smell of fish being thrown around early in the day. We would then bargain for some oysters, which were always a staple on Sunday mornings. Then something for lunch—liempo to be served with catfish after being cooked, both of them, over charcoal. It was essential that these grilled dishes were paired with a vegetable dish, an ensalada of grilled eggplant seasoned with salted egg or even as simple as boiled okra dipped in bagoong.   

For a Filipino family as ordinary as ours, Sunday was also church day. But going to church for me also meant an opportunity to enjoy some street food. It was feasting on fishball and kikiam and enjoying them with the irresistible brown sawsawan. Then finishing things off with scoops of various dirty ice cream flavors from keso to ube, maybe even strawberry, stuffed into either a cone or a soft bun. 

As a cook looking back on those wonderful memories of delicious meals I’ve had with my father, I’ve been wondering what meal I can whip up to honor all Filipino fathers, so here’s imagining an entire day of special moments with them in a special five-course menu inspired by my own father Donato Baldosano’s cooking.

For a Filipino family as ordinary as ours, Sunday was also church day. But going to church for me also meant an opportunity to enjoy some street food.

A Father’s Feast

Agahan

Caldo of catfish, arroz caldo but instead of chicken, imagine fatty catfish cooked with rice, chili leaf, and lemongrass. Served with a toasted piece of bread with a thick slab of cold butter.

Palengke

Oyster lightly heated served with toyo-mansi and garlic oil with lato.

Tanghali

Pork Belly Roasted until tender, grilled and served with ginataan sauce and laswa.

Meryenda

Sisig or grilled pork cheeks seasoned with vinegar and chicken liver on a hot sizzling pan, to be served with an ice cold bottle of beer.

Hapunan

Kambing adobo ragout, to be served with paella valenciana.

Note: Last course must always be perfect, paired with a shot of cheap liquor.

As they always say cooking is an act of love. This is the time to cook for your father and let him enjoy a Filipino meal.

Editor’s Note: The author, l’enfant terrible of modern Philippine dining, is the chef-owner of Linamnam.