Chef Josh Boutwood’s latest Monochromatic menu gives exciting new meaning (and flavors) to colors, and reminds us why Helm is one of the best restaurants in the metro
Tasting menus have increasingly become popular in the Philippines with the rise of restaurants like Gallery Vask (now Gallery by Chele), Toyo Eatery, Tiago, Metronome, Hapag, and Linamnam, to name a few. Innovative dishes served by dedicated and passionate chefs make every meal extra special. The good problem these days is that these dégustacion menus are starting to become all too common.
Each establishment has its strengths and weaknesses. All are, nonetheless, worth trying. More often than not, food tastings are a pleasurable experience. But it’s also because of how wonderful the dining experience is that only a few really stand out.
One of the outstanding restaurants is Helm. Chef Josh Boutwood’s intimate 10-seat “dining theater” at the Arya Residences Tower in Bonifacio Global City, Taguig, is among the most sought-after dining destinations in Manila, especially by discerning gourmands. Everything about the place is excellent, from the service and ambiance to the chef and, of course, the food.
Inspired by Chef Josh’s nomadic adventures and culinary training in Europe and later on the Philippines, the restaurant was conceived in 2018. In 2021, Helm was included in the elusive 50 Best Discovery List, a catalog of elite restaurants and bars from all over the world curated by industry experts. The Filipino-British chef was also named the La Liste’s Young Talent of the Year 2021.
Chef Josh normally prepares an 11-course dégustacion menu based on creative themes such as his personal career, and his most recent, the monochrome colors. My first time dining at Helm was special with the debut of Chef Josh’s most intimate menu themed after his life and profession.
Before my visit, I had a rough idea of Chef Josh’s flavors having tasted his food in Iloilo and in his other restaurant Savage, located just on the second floor of Helm. The 34-year-old chef also has Test Kitchen at Rockwell, Makati. He is the corporate chef of the Bistro Group. Despite all of these, he shines the brightest in Helm.
His personal menu from last year was memorable. I remember stuffing my face with the meat dishes, in particular, fork-tender short rib, with a dash of aged soy sauce, and Cavite pineapple puree on the side, as well as pork belly with eggplant and chili. Since then, Helm has become one of my favorite restaurants in Manila.
Today, Helm’s tasting menu is a rework of its fabled Monochromatic menu. Some foodie friends were raving about the colors menu and how it was one of Chef Josh’s best lineups, so I was enthusiastic. The latest iteration of the Monochromatic menu for me far exceeds expectations.
At the beginning of the dinner, guests are given a card with various circles of different colors laid out to appear like the Philippine map. Think Philippines’ 30th SEA Games logo. The colors represent a specific dish. Here are what’s in the lineup.
For appetizers—not part of the colors—there’s the fish and chips composed of Hamachi or pacific yellowtail, horseradish, trout, and sea buckthorns; black pepper French toast topped with hickory-smoked mussels, lemon, dill, and oxtail rillet with raisin port and sunflower shoot.
The topmost circle and the first of the colors is green. The dish is made of Japanese cucumbers compressed in roasted sesame oil, raw tuna, avocado and cilantro emulsion, tapioca, green mango, and nasturtium. It was a refreshing start, and one of my favorites.
Purple is a porridge of Adlai cooked in ube (purple yam), local octopus that’s lightly poached and grilled, puffed Adlai, and dehydrated red cabbage. It was a surprising and filling dish with tender yet chewy octopi.
Next is red, which is represented by a tartare of yearling lamb, garlic, and beetroot. No gamey taste whatsoever, thanks to the beetroot and mayo. This one is another favorite of mine. With this dish, Chef Josh shows his culinary prowess by bringing out the best in the ingredients, creating a synergy to produce a dish that’s unique and delectable. Each element plays an important role.
Yellow is pumpkin and sunflower seeds roasted in hay, 67°C egg yolk, espuma of potato infused with saffron oil topped with brioche and preserved egg yolk.
The house Sebastian sourdough with whipped butter was also served.
Coho salmon, curry leaf, roasted carrot, and crab fat and tomato oil and powder was orange. Because I am allergic to shellfish, I had mine without the crab sauce. Removing it diminishes the flavors of the dish significantly.
The showstopper of the night was white. A bite and all signs of satiety go away. It was chef’s kiss!
The first of the savory dishes is brown. It is dry-aged duck with foie gras and rutabaga purée. It is topped with sweet potato leaf and local cacao and black pepper cracker giving it a contrast in flavor and texture. The sauce is black fungus mushroom and preserved gooseberries.
Gray was the next savory dish and it came as short rib beef, cooked for 72 hours and served with three pastes on the side namely shiitake with button and chestnuts cooked in bone marrow; burnt eggplant purée with black garlic emulsion; and squid ink with bone marrow gravy. At this point, I was too full. But it was good enough that I finished the meat dish still.
Chef Josh requires his diners to guess the black dish. Those who guess right receive a prize.
The showstopper of the night was white. Best described as magical, the dessert is made of coconut and tapuey ice cream, nata de coco marinated in lime leaf syrup, dried macapuno, coconut milk and vanilla foam, and egg whites. A bite and all signs of satiety go away. It was Chef’s kiss! One of the best desserts I’ve had in my entire life—no exaggerations.
We capped the night with Tanzania single-origin paired with a layered honey cake, whipped marzipan, and local wild honey.
The Monochromatic menu highlights Chef Josh’s strengths, including his creativity, culinary philosophy of putting the ingredients first, attention to detail, techniques, and passion for what he does. It has all the makings of a successful tasting menu, from simple straightforward dishes to complicated but delicious ones, luxurious components, and decadent desserts. If there’s one thing I have to nitpick on, it’s that I got home too satisfied and happy.