Farewell to this force in fashion, Vogue legend, Vreeland protégé, and larger-than-life style personality. He died in New York, at 73, of an undisclosed illness
Whether you first saw him as a judge on cycles 14-17 of America’s Next Top Model, on Sex and the City: The Movie as a sittings editor for Carrie Bradshaw’s Vogue shoot, or on the 2019 documentary The September Issue, where he proclaimed the famine of beauty in America, it’s impossible not to take notice of and be stirred by the fashion force that was André Leon Talley.
“To help Anna Wintour decide what goes in the magazine and to help the editors of Vogue to have a dialogue about fashion,” was what André said in The September Issue when asked about his role. André always had something to say—not because he wanted to speak but because he knew people wanted to listen.
I say wanted to listen because, quite frankly, once you start hearing him speak, you will always want more. From his unpaid apprenticeship for Diana Vreeland back in 1974 to the many hats (journalist, stylist, editor-at-large, and creative director to name a few) he had worn, André lived and breathed fashion. I stand corrected. André Leon Talley was not a fashion force. He was a fashion icon. Now, with his passing, he is a legend.
How does one pay tribute to someone like André Leon Talley? By celebrating his life through his words, which we are all so lucky to have. His 2020 memoir The Chiffon Trenches is arguably my favorite memoir so far. It celebrates his words that painted portraits of his life. In fact, to me, his memoir is a captivating and sublime exhibit, an exhibit immortalized for all of us to read, learn from, and revisit. Here are some of the paintings
‘None of my contemporaries have seen the world through black eyes.’
To say that André was a trailblazer is an understatement. He advocated for diversity in fashion. He offered a unique perspective. He broke barriers just by showing up.
‘My mother could be quite nasty to me, but I still respected her. That did not mean I had to like her.’
For context, André was raised by his grandmother, whom he acknowledged as the person who gave him an understanding of luxury. Despite his feelings toward his mother, he always maintained respect, such a timely reminder.
André not only loves fashion, but he truly knows it. He knew who Rose Bertin was. How many people know who Rose Bertin is? Well, she was Marie Antoinette’s personal designer, and the most important designer of her day. —Diana Vreeland
‘Never give up on your dreams, and do your homework.’
André was always one to come prepared. As a matter of fact, his skills and knowledge led Diana Vreeland to connect him with Andy Warhol and a job at Interview magazine.
‘Style will get you up the steps into the revolving door; substance and knowledge will allow you access to create new horizons.’
A man of style and substance himself, André advocated both and how they work interdependently in fashion and in life.
‘To Anna Wintour, a good meeting was over in eight minutes. If a meeting went beyond 15 minutes, it meant something was seriously wrong. If she relied on your taste and your thought process, there was no need for a conversation with an editor to last more than a few minutes.’
Obviously the fashion industry is a fast-paced environment, but what this tells us is not just efficiency but also the importance of being and working with the right people. Also, his tumultuous relationship with Anna is explored in the book (just in case you needed further convincing to read it).
‘My personal style evolved over decades, and it is fundamentally the awareness that a man can dress with splendor, in full-blown over-the-topness, and be admired for it.’
André was a trailblazer with not just what he brought to the table, but also with what he wore at the table.
‘Love has not been in my life in any degree. I never learned how to maintain strong self-worth when it came to two people getting down, literally clinging to each other. Yet, I have found love and little interludes of innocence or wonderful, life-enhancing bonds, and friendships that grew out of respect, affection, and admiration. I have had many emotional highs and definite lows when it comes to love and romance, and yet I am alone.’
André was so honest about romance (or the lack thereof) in his memoir. One of the many things I admire about André is his perspective, and this is one of the many examples of his profound introspections.
‘Life changes. Life has to go on. You have to keep going. I, too, am a sinner, flawed and fallen from grace, getting up and trying for salvation, over and over.’
It’s easier to listen and put this into practice when it comes from someone who empathized instead of being prescriptive. Thank you, André.
If you watched André Leon Talley on America’s Next Top Model, then you’ve probably heard him say “dreckitude” countless times. It’s a portmanteau for dreck and attitude, which means trash or rubbish. Although André mostly used this word to describe some of the questionable fashion choices of the contestants, his intention of saying it was always clear: Learn from your mistakes, improve yourself, and be fabulous. What a fabulous life you have lived, André!