Surprises in Ilocos Norte


To write about my recent Ilocos Norte food trip in one article is just not enough. I really wouldn’t mind driving nine hours again on these beautiful roads to experience all that wonderful and purely Pinoy-flavored food.     

One evening, we were invited to Kabulalohan, a new open-spaced restaurant that serves the same food as the famous La Preciosa restaurant in Laoag City. Here, you will also experience superb Ilokano food. Try their pancit lusay, which is made of leftover palengke fresh noodles topped with chopped bagnet and flavored with fish bagoong. Her dry dinuguan is also to die for. The Dinengdeng Baridibud was unique and delicious. The crispy Bagbagis are fried pork intestines with spicy sukang Iloko. Also a must.

The author (rightmost) at the Bangui lighthouse

Of course we had to pass by Batac for the authentic empanada. I have written about the outstanding empanada here. But on this trip I discovered something from a dear friend, Vice Governor Cecile Marcos. I believe she and I have the same taste in food. She was the one responsible for introducing us to the crispy Miki at Seashells in Laoag. Yummy! Anyway, while enjoying my empanada, she told me, “Try it with banana catsup, then add spicy sukang Iloko.” Boom! What a discovery! I always preferred Sukang Iloko over banana catsup, which any younger kid would like. But eaten together, OMG! Winner! Try it. I settle for the Farinas empanada in Manila.

On the way to the lighthouse in Bangui, I also made another discovery—a wide variety of imported chilis. I had never seen anything like these before. These are grown and bottled by Nur Nurani, brought a lot of seeds back and the chilis love the soil in Bangui. His sauces are new and unique. I was amazed we had these varieties in our country. It is only on Netflix about Mexican food that I see these varieties of chilis. Nur bottles them. (Chili Chingado- 0961 843 0379)

This tiny carinderia serves the most delicious, inexpensive, authentic, not-to-be missed Ilokano food. Manang Ahket or Dawangs is an institution in San Nicolas, Ilocos Norte.

Driving along the main highway to Pagudpud, we stopped by a row of stalls that sell grilled posit, char-grilled with a homemade rub. Just pour spicy Ilokos vinegar over and munch away. Heaven! I love discoveries like these. You’ll see this in my restaurant when, Lord willing, we open again.

One morning, we took in the sun at a friend’s house and worked up a bit of sweat. From here, we headed to this tiny carinderia that serves the most delicious, inexpensive, authentic, not to be missed Ilokano food. Manang Ahket or Dawangs is an institution in San Nicolas, Ilocos Norte. You have to eat here. I don’t eat rice, or at least I try not to. This lunch, I had three cups. The first dish that fell in front of me was igado. I could have eaten two cups of rice with this one tiny order. It was so flavorful and delicious. This is where the crispy dinuguan was invented. Superb! There was tinuno or inihaw na liempo with sliced tomatoes and eaten with sukang iloko, papaitan, pinakbet, and the newest and now my most favorite Ilokano dish, Papaluyen. The dish is made of beef innards simmered for hours until they become melt in your mouth tender and served with a simple broth. To me, it is the most delicious Ilokano, unique, unheard of dish I have ever come across. Grabe! Now tell me, how does one eat these kinds of delicious, authentic, and unique dishes without rice. Best meal ever. And napakamura (Very cheap). Mapapamura at mapapasayaw ka sa sarap (It’s so good it will make you curse and dance).

We should have a food tour of Ilocos. You want to talk about pure, unadulteradted Pinoy food? You’ll find it here!

Happy eating!

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