Choosing the right head unit and speaker setup

Written by Eric Tipan

You love the new car but hate the stale sound. Common problem, not so easy fix, unless you’re an audiophile with the ears of an orchestra conductor.

Since not all of us are that blessed, I’m here to level the playing field. Let’s get you to a starting point first. What do you want out of your vehicle’s audio system?

From there, it’s a choose-your-own-adventure type endeavor (80s kids will understand) deciding what to get based on the sound you want.

How much speaker power for the cabin size?

Watch out for the power output, specifically the wattage, e.g. 50 watts. Make sure that pertains to RMS (root mean square) instead of peak power. That information is printed on the speaker’s label.

50 watts seems like a lot but if it’s just peak power, you’re just getting 50 in very short spurts. If it pertains to RMS, your ears are getting 50 continuously and consistently.

Also, make sure it’s 50 watts RMS per channel, which means that 50 watts go to each of the four or five channels (depending on the specs of the head unit or amp).

50 watts RMS should sound good in an average compact sedan, e.g. Vios, Altis. But for larger vehicles, 77 watts RMS will be better.

If you want the audio to really pop, there’s no law against going for 100 or even 2,000+ watts RMS.

What’s your head unit?

If your head unit is old, go for an upgrade. If it comes with a touchscreen and Bluetooth, keep it and put the extra money on better speakers.

New OEM head units usually have 10 watts RMS (sends 10 watts to each of the speakers), which is considered a low-power system. In that scenario, get a speaker with high sensitivity ratings (anything over 93 dB should be ok). It’s listed as SPL (sound pressure level) in the specs.

Should you decide to get a new head unit, pick the one with at least 16 watts RMS. But remember, the higher the output of the head unit the lower the sensitivity of the speaker. Hence, pair it with speakers rated at around 88-93 dB.

Do I need amplifiers?

Yes, if you want to hear every single nuance of the song. Otherwise, the built-in amps of the head unit should be enough.

If you’re on a budget and aren’t too finicky, get a head unit with high RMS because that can power the speakers without amps. But, if you want a fuller and rich sound, or you’re installing additional speakers, get an amp.

As to the kind of amps, it really depends on the number of speakers and the specs of each.

Best to pair each speaker to one channel. You can start from a low 2- to a high 8-channel amp. As for the power, anything from 20 to 2,000+ watts RMS or higher, depending on the cabin size and your preference.

Installing a subwoofer? Use mono or single-channel amps specifically designed for subwoofers. Some even have audio tools to enhance bass sounds. This setup is preferred because subwoofers have a wide range of impedances that can literally fry 2- and 4-channels amps.

Speakers baby!

These come in all shapes and sizes (it can even match the factory mounts of your OEM speakers) and are simply plug and play. Just match the speakers’ capacity to the output of the head unit or amplifier, which means that if it’s delivering 50 watt RMS, each of your speakers should be rated as such.

Beware that there are two types of speakers, component and coaxial.

Component speakers have a better design because the tweeters are housed separately from the woofers and mids. It will require individual drivers powered by a separate amplifier though.

A coaxial speaker has everything built into it, from the tweeter to the woofer.

Component speakers reproduce much higher audio quality and more detailed sound than coaxial but it’s also more expensive and requires more cabin space for installation.

Invest in great front speakers, because that’s where majority of your sound (for the driver) will come from. If you’re buying four speakers, try to get both pairs (front and rear) from the same maker, and try to get the same model. This prevents differences in tones between the pairs.

Install a subwoofer so your speakers won’t strain at high volume. Plus, it makes the overall sound much more robust. Choose an enclosed sub so you don’t have to manufacture a box for it. The ideal placement is in front but unless you drive a classic Beetle, the trunk is your next best option. Underseat subwoofers are an option. They’re cheaper, take up less space, but are less customizable and don’t sound as good.

Find the right shop

This can get quite complicated to put together. If you’d rather leave this in the hands of a professional, visit JC Car Audio or Growl Audio. Both shops specialize in modifying integrated entertainment systems in new cars.

Soundcheck

Brand new audio systems take some time to realize their maximum potential. At the start, these parts will be stiff but will loosen up and become more dynamic the more they’re used.

To make sure it flexes through all the frequencies, play music with a wide dynamic range. Turn it up, but not at glass-shattering levels just yet. Play songs you’re familiar with so you can tell how the speakers get better as they gets more flexible over time. After the break-in, play it loud and play it proud!