By Kaye Estoista-Koo

The main level of Wolfgang's Steakhouse Podium

It is not often you hear the Cinderella story of a waiter-turned-restaurant owner, especially of a property as prestigious as a New York-style steakhouse.

But in 2004, Wolfgang Zwiener opened his Wolfgang’s Steakhouse from the ground up, fulfilling his very own American dream after having worked his way to head waiter in Peter Luger’s steakhouse. After 40 years of knowing the ins and outs of a steakhouse, including the dry aging process of USDA prime quality beef, Wolfgang felt confident enough to strike out on his own.

Peter, his son and currently Wolfgang’s Steakhouse president and managing partner, recalls how Pinoys living in New York were already part of their clientele, and how Wolfgang’s Steakhouse quickly became a favorite among New Yorkers.

The Wolfgang's Steakhouse team (from left) Amiro Cruz, executive chef (Global); Travis Halverson, general manager (Podium); Lydia D'Amato, vice president of operations and partner (Global); Peter Zwiener, president and partner (Global); Marvin Agustin and Raymund Magdaluyo, local partners (Philippines)

They now have 10 restaurants all over Asia’s major cities aside from the nine stateside. This 2018, together with their local partners represented by Raymund Marasigan and Marvin Agustin, Wolfgang’s Steakhouse ventured into its second Philippine location in the heart of Ortigas Center.

When they opened the first restaurant in Resorts World Manila just under two years ago, Raymund recalls how they came across the prime spot, a ground floor location.

“It was in a way low risk because we automatically had a captive market in the gamblers who are willing to spend more,” he says. He recounts, however, that Peter has dreamed of a BGC location ever since he first saw the area in 2012.

Lunch Special at Wolfgang's Steakhouse Podium

Due to the delays in the complex where the restaurant was to be located, the timeline kept getting moved. It took a while, but it was worth it, Raymund adds. “We secured a flagship location, a corner location in the new Stock Exchange building, and now his dream is coming true.”

Coming true later this 2018, that is.

The new Podium branch is also coming in at the right time. “Podium seems to be our sweet spot even with just two to three turnovers for 90 seating,” Raymund says. “It is perfect for the market. It is a better fit for our type of market and knowing what we know now, we definitely could not start right away here. We needed the groove of Resorts World first.”

In Japan, where there are four Wolfgang’s Steakhouse branches, Raymund says on a slow bad Monday, they have four turnovers with 90 seatings. “It would be ideal here,” he says.

Rare find

One great store is good, but the partners always hope for more. Raymund says that their Podium location, especially with Podium renovated and updated to appeal more to the Quezon City market. There are two major office towers right beside it, a major bank, and at least six exclusive residential villages nearby. “We wanted it here to give Marvin no excuse not to visit the store since it is just 10 minutes away from his village,” he jokes.

What Wolfgang Zwiener created, his signature 28-day dry-aged USDA Prime quality beef, continues to be the main attraction here. Peter, who prefers his steak rare (“I get the taste of the beef and the personality of the meat more when it is rare”), values the principle of getting your steak like you want it. Peter says, “If you order it medium rare, it is going to come out medium rare.”

Perfect pair the wine cellar at Wolfgang's Steakhouse Podium

Marvin explains that he used to doubt a steak’s doneness as well, He says, “Like others, I used to doubt this doneness, so when I used to go to a steakhouse here in the country, I would under request my steak’s doneness. That is why a popular option became medium rare plus. But at Wolfgang’s, everyone on staff is trained to get it right every time.”

Wolfgang’s also prizes the dry aging process. The more popular option is wet aging, but according to Peter, it has a distinct disadvantage.

“Over the course of time, it bleeds out juices and blood and reduces in flavor. Not everyone has the facility for this. You need the aging room in the restaurant, a sustainable temperature, and good airflow,” he boasts.

So when it comes to a Wolfgang’s Steakhouse USDA Prime Black Angus beef, anywhere in the world, the steaks—whether New York sirloin, rib eye, filet mignon, or Porterhouse steak—will be dry aged on site, which means the restaurant has an aging room with controlled humidity and temperature to ensure the beef breaks down the muscle, that moisture evaporates, and the beef’s flavor and taste are kept intact.

They pride themselves on their beef’s superior marbling, flavor, tenderness, and texture, and while 28-days is their signature, they have been known to accommodate requests for beef that has been aged longer.

Peter confesses, “We have gotten orders for 50-day, 75-day dry-aged beef. Yes you can customize. But you have to order the whole slab if you want to get that. I have tried older-aged beef, it tastes grittier, earthier. There is more funk to it.”

Their rib eye, which comes in 600g or 900g options, can be shared by two people either way and is a meaty symphony of flavors on your tongue.

Their Porterhouse is hefty, so come prepared for this, but it is certainly something you won’t regret. Diners can choose from a platter for two, three, or four. Wolfgang’s Steakhouse signature Porterhouse steak has made people change their minds on what to expect from a Porterhouse.

“That is because the quality of our meat has made people change the way they see a Porterhouse, which is usually a bad cut of steak on a sizzling plate when you would order it elsewhere,” he says.

The whole menu is straightforward steakhouse, and if you are wondering where the USDA Prime Angus gets its flavor, you will be pleasantly surprised that all of the meats just get salt. The luxurious taste, perfect grill marks, crust, and juicy steaks will taste exactly the same as if you sat down in the New York location.

In fact, Marvin assures everyone that the prices here are comparable with the US locations. At $70 to $90 average expected expense per person, Wolfgang’s Steakhouse can be your go-to location to close a business deal or celebrate a victory lunch with your officemates.

As for ambiance, Peter promised that each location accesses the New York vibe, but that they had to adjust the seating for the Asian cities, because Pinoys don’t have the size of the American diners.

Raymund stresses that they continue to train the front and back of house employees by sending them to either a Japan Wolfgang’s Steakhouse or the original one in New York. “Our focus now is the broilers, as they need to perfect a steak’s doneness, and our goal is to be able to serve you exactly what they would serve at any Wolfgang’s Steakhouse, especially the one in New York,” he says. But they had to account for the different economic status in the Philippine stores. “We know wage equals productivity so the big challenge is how do you match the service level here to their counterparts in NY. We had to manufacture the environment here that would allow them to step up through incentives and exposure to this level of dining. In New York, the waiters can easily afford the menu of the steakhouse, here not as much. But we believe in the skill of the Philippine worker, and we are so proud that nearly half of the Podium staff are pioneers who have been with us from the start.”

For those looking for something other than steak, they have a seafood platter overflowing with Maine lobster, crab, and shrimp served with the signature Wolfgang’s sauce, a comforting beef barley soup, grilled salmon, lamb chops, pork chops, fresh oysters, sizzling Canadian bacon, to name a few. The starches and vegetables available as side dishes with any meat order are filling in their own right whether it’s German potatoes, creamed spinach, lobster mac and cheese, and sauteed broccoli.

And the New York Style cheesecake is definitely worth the calories as well. It comes with an interesting backstory. When the first Philippine Wolfgang’s Steakhouse opened in Resorts World last February 2016, the cheesecake from New York had not arrived in time.

The local kitchen whipped up a cheesecake that was close enough in taste and the rest is history—the cheesecake formulated by the Philippine Wolfgang’s is now used in all branches except for the original one.