Christine Manfield in action

What truly sets the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok apart is the unique care they have for their food and beverage in every aspect. For six years now, I have been a regular at their Sunday Jazz Brunch. Their formula follows a list of what every topnotch and world-class hotel offers, but the distinction lies in the choice of ingredients. This is evident in the flawless, delicate, young, and tender arugula and mesclun in the salads; the Valrhona chocolate used in the pralines; the choice blanched white asparagus to be dipped in a hollandaise made of high quality (not grocery or bulk) butter; and the very pristine tuna at the sashimi section to name a few.

I recently had lunch with Annie Daokaew, the Filipina public relations officer of this hotel who is married to a Thai national. She was very eager to showcase the famous, world-class chefs in her hotel outlets. A lunch of freshly made antipasti from their Biscotti restaurant foretold what this festival would be like, as I washed their tender morsels of stewed duck tossed in rigatoni down with a Tuscan Dogajolo, chosen by their very knowledgeable Biscotti manager.

Staying at the Four Seasons is always a complete experience for the soul and stomach. One always feels spoiled with their gargantuan beds, an equally huge flat screen TV, L’occitane toiletries, and invisible housekeepers who always keep a tab on one’s needs. Anyway, here’s the first of a series of dinners from their chefs.

Christine Manfield of Universal Restaurant, Sydney, Australia

Christine Manfield is a highly-regarded chef, author, food manufacturer, and gastronomic traveler. Drawing from her Eastern and Western inclinations, she formulates dishes that her clientele finds exciting. Having sampled her dinner, I was moved by a woman who can cook strong and powerful flavors. She is possibly the epitome of a dominatrix in her kitchen realm.

To start her dinner off, we were served a dry, aged Beef Tataki. Seared rare, an abundance of flavors from the beef appeared on every corner of our palates, only to unite in a single play of flavors. One can detect a subtle hint of cumin and other seed spices on the dry rub used on the lean and tender beef slices. It was topped with a reduction of caramelized shallots, vinegar, and sugar and little crunchy tidbits of pomegranate seeds that further released a degree of acidity, which complemented the sweetness of the beet dressing and sharpness of the mustard and kaiwarima sprouts.

This was beautifully paired off with a Rosemount Diamond Label Sauvignon Blanc 2008 that didn’t need much contemplation to enjoy, since it evoked tropical fruits, particularly pomegranate, with a finish of custard flavored with light rosewater.

Next on the menu was an ocean trout that was smoked in apple wood. It was gelatinous, oily, and translucent and its upfront almost sausage-like smokiness blended well with the peppery arugula microgreens and the fine julienne of green mango and pomelo bits topped with salmon eggs.

With such oily richness and wood character, A Wolf Blass President Selection Chardonnay 2006 that was buttery, custardy, and with lots of vanilla was served with it. It also heightened the features of Chef Christine’s well-orchestrated Ceviche Cum Thai Yam recipe.

For the third course, a pile of crabmeat tossed in sautéed ginger and curry leaves was served in a yellowish curry-like broth heightened with tomato, coconut. and dark onion seeds. The flavors of the broth reminded me of a fabulous enriched seafood Tom Yam I had years ago, although it had more turmeric. The curry leaves on my dish though seemed to be a strain that was too thick and I picked them from the crabmeat.

What our table thought to be a daring pair off with a Rosemount GSM or a Grenache Syrah Mouvedre 2002 did nothing for the wine. The spiciness and stray flavors actually killed the luscious wine. They should have used the pre-dinner drink instead, which was a Rosemount Diamond Cellar Traminer Riesling 2006. Even Chef Christine told me she did not agree with this pairing. I was glad that they served it though, for on its own it was a delightfully silky red with milk chocolate milkshake aromas, on the mid-palate and has blueberry and blackberry flavors with a finish of brown sugar.

For the main course, our lady chef served Jasmine Tea Smoked Duck Breast with a delightfully flavorful duck sausage in the Saiuoa style, redolent of fragrant herbs and kaffir leaf. With it was the Spiced Eggplant Al Green Bean Salad and was served with a Wolf Blass President Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 which was enjoyably reminiscent of plums, blueberries, and mint.

Dessert gave away the chef’s inner femininity as this dessert was truly all woman. The dessert was a simple raspberry sauce rippled on layers of freshly-whipped cream surrounded by a crisp laminated tuile of sugar, butter, and flour with some very choice, huge, and flavorful raspberries.

Lastly, coffee and tea took on a different dimension as with it was a miniature chocolate and hazelnut caramel tart that had a pate sucree crust of chocolate with crunchy bits of sea salt. Classically, this pairs well with butter caramel, which in turn, works well with crunch from a roasted hazelnut and a soft dark chocolate topping. That salty touch was a true mark of bravado and a statement of originality for an exciting dinner of upfront flavors.