Chef Nobu Matsuhisa, the man behind a global empire of restaurants and hotels, was back in Manila last March 25 as part of City of Dreams Manila’s 10th anniversary celebration. His visit, the fifth to Nobu Manila, followed the global 30th anniversary of Nobu Restaurants. The celebrated chef—renowned for his signature “Nobu Style” cuisine, which seamlessly blends Japanese techniques with Peruvian influences—led an exclusive sushi masterclass for select members of the media before hosting a two-night culinary affair.
Our first encounter with Chef Nobu at Nobu Manila was an unexpectedly candid moment—one that revealed his easygoing nature. Just before the highly anticipated sushi masterclass, we found ourselves at the restroom sink, preparing to wash our hands. To our surprise, behind us was the culinary legend himself, meticulously lathering his own. With a warm smile, he nodded and said, “Oh yes. Washing the hands before the demo is very, very important.”
Then, as he rinsed, he mused, “You know, in the West, they like preparing sushi and sashimi with gloves on.” His expression shifted to a slight frown. “But we’re Asians, yes? We need to touch, to feel.” And with a mischievous glint in his eyes, he added, “Just like in... you know?” He laughed heartily, a moment of levity before we stepped into the sushi-making session—hands clean, anticipation high.
During the masterclass, Chef Nobu emphasized the importance of technique, respect for ingredients, and the philosophy of cooking with “kokoro” or “from the heart.” Preparing sushi and learning from Chef Nobu revealed just how precise and challenging the craft truly is. Pressing and shaping the rice with the fingers, applying the right amount of wasabi, ensuring hands remained moist, and shaping each piece with a delicate yet firm touch required intense focus. What seemed like simple movements carried a depth of skill honed over decades. Chef Nobu moved from table to table, adjusting hand positions, offering quiet corrections, and sharing anecdotes about his culinary philosophy. It became clear that he was not just a master chef but a master teacher.
“Sushi is about feeling,” he reiterated, highlighting how the warmth of the chef’s hands influences the rice’s texture and the overall dining experience. His hands-on approach and warm demeanor made the session feel less like a demonstration and more like a personal lesson from a master.
Chef Nobu’s journey to global culinary stardom began in his hometown of Saitama, Japan, where he first fell in love with sushi as a child. “We sat at the counter and watched the chefs prepare the fish and hand it to us, piece by piece. I ate it in one bite, and I just said ‘wow,’” he recalled. That moment set him on a path that would take him to Peru, where he experimented with local flavors, blending them with Japanese techniques. He later endured setbacks, including the devastating fire that destroyed his first restaurant in Alaska. “That was the darkest time of my life. I had lost everything, and I truly thought about killing myself,” he admitted. But he pushed forward, eventually opening Matsuhisa in Los Angeles, where he caught the attention of Robert De Niro, who convinced him to expand to New York. “From the beginning, I never thought of my food as traditional Japanese food. It’s Nobu Style food,” he said.
After the class, we sat down for a meticulously crafted lunch, showcasing some of Nobu Manila’s most celebrated dishes. The menu was an homage to the chef’s iconic creations. It began with Nobu Signature Sashimi, a delicate yet vibrant dish of yellowtail with jalapeño, yuzu soy, and cilantro. This was followed by the Nobu Sashimi Salad, featuring lightly seared tuna tataki over crisp field greens, dressed in Matsuhisa’s signature dressing and garnished with shaved root and daikon tsuma. Then came the Black Cod Miso, a dish that embodies Nobu’s signature approach—simple, flavorful, and precise—featuring buttery cod glazed with yuzu miso and accompanied by hajikami.
The fourth and fifth courses stood out as personal favorites. The US Prime Dry-Aged Ribeye Yakimono, served with a bold anticucho sauce and assorted oshinko, hearkened back to Chef Nobu’s Peruvian flavor experiences, delivering a perfect balance of spice and tang. It was followed by the Whisky Cappuccino, a delightful ending to the meal—sweet, creamy, and punctuated by a hint of dark, bitter maltiness that rounded out the experience beautifully.
Each dish told a story, reflecting Chef Nobu’s decades-long journey—from his humble beginnings to the creation of an internationally recognized brand. The Black Cod Miso, for instance, was a testament to his ability to refine and elevate a simple preservation technique into a dish beloved by celebrities and gourmands alike.
His philosophy is simple yet profound: “Fusion is confusion. I prefer to say Nobu style. I keep things simple and let the ingredients work together and speak for themselves.” This ethos, combined with his unwavering commitment to quality and hospitality, has solidified his place in the culinary world. “Hospitality is about great food and excellent service. That’s still what I tell my teams today,” he said.
Beyond the cuisine, Chef Nobu’s presence itself was a reminder of why his empire continues to thrive. His approachability, humor, and dedication to quality have cemented his legacy. As he made his rounds, engaging with guests, one thing was evident: this wasn’t just a masterclass or a luncheon—it was an experience, one infused with passion, precision, and the unmistakable warmth of Nobu Matsuhisa himself.