At Communa, Celera, which opened only on Feb. 5, is a study in contrasts—chic yet unpretentious, refined yet deeply comforting.
Stepping into the restaurant, nestled on top of a low-rise building in this vibrant enclave of Makati—new, surprising, unlikely—I was immediately struck by the space’s open kitchen—the most open I’ve ever seen—and airy interior, where black walls, generous windows, and a slanted ceiling set the stage for what would become an evening of culinary storytelling.
The meal began with delicate introductions—a poached scallop dressed in dill and horseradish cream on a buckwheat tartlet that whispered promises of what was to come. Before long, my palate was graced by a bold double gold beef tartare. Its finely chopped beef mingled with a piquant chili relish and luxuriously smooth bone marrow, all artfully balanced atop a crisp peanut pancake—a playful yet sophisticated nod to flavor and texture.
Then came a dish that truly embodied Celera’s daring spirit: a white Pekin duck and chicken meatball, artfully infused with aromatic shiso and paired with the unexpected sweetness of grilled Baguio strawberries and skewered on a pine sprig. “The meatball was inspired by a memory I wanted to chase spending my summers in Baguio when I was young,” says Nicco. “The strong smell of pine leaves when my car windows were down, smoke from a bonfire, strawberries from grilled strawberries from Baguio, some kiniing mashed in with the pekin duck and chicken.” As a result, each bite was a quiet revelation, a fusion of hearty comfort and elegant innovation that lingered long after the plate was cleared.
For the mains, the creativity only deepened. Served first was a grilled Maine lobster tail, its tender flesh bathed in a spicy laksa bisque and accompanied by sweet corn agnolotti that offered a gentle counterpoint to the bold seafood.
Equally memorable was a perfectly seared French quail, fried quickly at a high temperature and enhanced by a subtly smoked quail bone sauce and bright notes of spinach and daikon, showcasing the kitchen’s deft handling of delicate proteins.
Not to be outdone, the grilled French lamb ribs arrived with a medley of earthy beetroot, zesty gremolata, and a rich red wine sauce that struck a deeply satisfying chord. It came with a striking plate of Bali heirloom black rice, simmered into a savory longganisa ragu with a whisper of squid ink and garnished by crispy chicken skin, a modern twist that dared to challenge the conventional.
Celera’s boldness extended even to its comforting reinterpretations: a Soft Lemak where tender rendang met coconut rice, punctuated by tangy hebi hiam and wild sambal balacan, a dish that managed to be both daring and deeply nostalgic.
As the meal approached its finale, dessert arrived in the form of a dark chocolate and Milo tart crowned with coconut caramel and lush banana cream, followed by an unexpected yet harmonious Ais, a refreshing interlude of soy sauce caramel cream, amazake granita, white sesame, and cool cucumber.
Throughout the meal, each course was punctuated by drinks poured with precision by Erika Gail Posadas, adding a perfect note of balance to the intricate layers of flavor. It’s rare at Manila’s chef-driven restaurants to have your drinks served by someone who knows exactly what they’re pouring rather than just reciting a rehearsed list of tasting notes.
Celera, inspired by the Malay word selera (the gift of taste), reveals its philosophy in every open kitchen glance and every meticulously crafted plate. It is a testament to the culinary vision of Nicco Santos and Quenee Vilar, chefs who have reimagined Asian flavors with refined technique and personal passion. In this once-overlooked pocket of Makati, now transformed into a buzzing, stylish escape reminiscent of Hong Kong’s revitalized creative hubs, Celera proves that cool never asks for permission—it simply arrives, with a statement boutique or two, independent stores, art galleries, creative shops, a goto kiosk, a tattoo studio, a concept café in tow, along with Celera, where every bite, every sip, and every shared smile affirmed that more than just a restaurant, it’s an experience—a quiet, profound celebration of taste and togetherness.
Celera is at 238 Pablo Ocampo Sr. Extension, Makati. www.restaurantcelera.com