Maki paradise: Kei Maki in Manila

Kei Maki makes seafood the star of it’s menu, along with the delicious vegetable-inspired small plates


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Leave it to the Wildflour Group to come up with a Japanese food concept that is different enough to stand on its own. Kei Maki at The Verde, BGC opens their doors not later than September 8, and it’s Chef Kei putting his own stamp on how maki hand rolls, sashimi, and Japanese cold plates, can be enjoyed here in the metropolis.

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Chef Kei

Kei Maki will be Jaime de Ocampo’s "baby," and I was really happy to have the chance to meet him and talk shop, while waiting for his mom, Ana, to get to the restaurant. The eatery seats 24, and is arranged like a bar/tasting experience.

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Jaime de Ocampo at Kei Maki

This design is intentional, as it allows all customers to have the maki served to them straight from prep. The nori wrappers are dehydrated then slightly grilled, so that they become crisp and warm. It’s important that one eats their maki right away, or you lose the effect and special treatment that the makis at Kei Maki are all about. Chef Kei was very insistent on this; and I understood why when I bit into the first maki they served, loving that tension between the hot and cold, the grilled and raw!

Kei Maki makes seafood the star of it’s menu, along with the delicious vegetable-inspired small plates. I’ll readily admit that even as a committed carnivore, I didn’t notice the absence of meat dishes, and loved my first Kei Maki lunch. Chef Kai has done stints in the best kitchens of San Sebastián (Arzak), Napa Valley, and LA. and is proud to call Manila his current home—as a second Kei Maki is already in its planning stage.
 

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Whipped Edamame with Rice Crisps

As for the food, here’s a rundown of my excellent Kei Maki food journey. First item that caught my eye was Whipped Edamame with Rice Crisps, and it did not disappoint. It’s like a frothy puree of edamame that you slather on the cracker. My dream was to bring this home, and have it as my healthy snack while watching a film.

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Cucumber with Radish, and Shiso

The Cucumber with Pickled Radish, Shiso and Ponzu Sauce was the one for bite and crispness. The shiso leaf providing a citrus influence on the dish. This one is great to share with friends.
 

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Green Beans with Oyster Mushrooms

There’s a Kei Maki Caesar Salad that utilizes Japanese mayo, wasabi and ponzu— and looks like regular salad, so didn’t bother with a photo. But my favorite was the Green Beans with Oyster Mushrooms, the toasted sesame dressing producing a unique flavor profile. Healthy never tasted this good, and its dishes like this that make me confident that I could, one day, exclusively go on a plant-based diet … for a week!
 

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Scallop with Ikura Hand Roll

The Tasmanian Salmon and Mahi Mahi rolls were what you would expect— high quality and great in flavor. The Japanese Toro hand roll, is a go-to I would repeat on my return. But if there’s one maki that I prized above the others that lunch, it would be the Japanese Scallop Hand Roll. The morsels of scallop were dusted with Ikura, and the combination was deadly in the best of ways!

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Hamachi Sashimi

And do leave room for the Hamachi Sashimi. Plump slices, and Chef Kei introduced me to a spicy Yuzu-based "relish" that one could smear on the Hamachi. Super-good! If this is healthier eating, sign me up! The Genmaicha brewed iced tea was my choice of beverage, as I’m allergic to alcohol. As befits a maki bar, there are sakes and fruit sakes offered.

The Kei Maki concept means a number of dishes we automatically associate with Japanese cuisine won’t be found here. The only menu items that requires cooking would be the Miso Soup, and perhaps the peppers. There’s no tempura, ramen, yakitori, or teppan; but trust me when I say that Kei Maki stands to be one of my favorites Japanese dining places. And if you don’t trust my judgment declaring this, go bump shoulders with Jaime!

You’ll find him and Kei Maki on the corner of 7th Avenue and 26th St., BGC.