Eating here is always easy like Sunday

Otherwise known as 'sobrassada' in Catalan, this starter dish is believed to have originated as a culinary concept after the centuries-long reign of the Muslims in the Iberian Peninsula, which marked the return of pork consumption to the region.

Every visit to El Cirkulo has been a collectible moment. Few things are reliable in life, and this restaurant on the ground floor of the MilkyWay Building on Arnaiz Avenue corner Paseo de Roxas near Greenbelt in Makati City has been one of them since it opened in August, 1995. 

It’s like lunch with abuelita, or a weekend at the ancestral house, always memorable.

El Cirkulo is just as storied. Back in 1995, when it was shaped like a bullring, designed as it was by Spanish creative Ramon Castellanos and architect Tina Bonoan, National Artist for the Visual Arts Arturo Luz created collages just for the restaurant. But the collages, a now revered collection Luz called “Torero,” inspired by corrida de toros or Spanish-style bullfighting, were only a jewel in the crown of El Cirkulo, for which, before it opened in 1995 and to this day, J. Gamboa, the chef behind it, would go to Madrid every now and then, such as in 1994, when he, together with the restaurant designers, went to the School of Matadors to purchase traje de luces or matador costumes, actually worn in the past by bullfighters, replete with blood stains, as well as to source materials and ingredients, learn more about Spanish cuisine, and keep the restaurant truly worthy of its designation as a Spanish restaurant.

You could say Cirkulo, housed in this foodie building along with Japanese restaurant Tsukiji, Thai restaurant Azuthai, and Milky Way Café, a dining institution even more storied than Cirkulo, is a passion project so personal to J Gamboa, now executive chef of this group of restaurants, and his sister, Malu Gamboa, who runs the restaurants as general manager. Going all the way back to J and Malu’s mother, who grew Milky Way from its roots as a dairy bar in the 1950s, being in the food business for the Gamboas has been a family affair that’s gone bigger, way, way bigger that for decades it has been open to us all who’d like to partake of it.

Already nostalgic, anchored as it is on good, old Spanish favorites, El Cirkulo is now even chockfull of new things, including a whole menu!

The siblings J and Malu took us on a weekday lunch to introduce us to these new additions to El Cirkulo’s pleasures and treasures.

First to be highlighted was the sobrasada de Mallorca or toasted chorizo spread on pan de cristal with honey. Otherwise known as sobrassada in Catalan, this starter dish is believed to have originated as a culinary concept after the centuries-long reign of the Muslims in the Iberian Peninsula, which marked the return of pork consumption to the region. Although it dates back to the Middle Ages, the sobrasada de Mallorca is a new dish even for J, who was only introduced to it by his daughter on a recent visit to Spain.  

Also new on the menu is the chopitos a la plancha or grilled baby squid with garlic, chili, and tomatoes. Cooked the way it was, on a hot flat top grill, it was fresh, tender, and juicy, served piping-hot and I imagine it would be perfect as much for coastal eating, such as on a sunny day, or for when it’s all cloudy and stormy outside and it could bring a ray of sunshine in.

Chef J seems particularly excited about the carbonara omelette of potato with pancetta and grana padano from Italy. It proved exciting indeed, a spin on the classic carbonara using potato—eggy, cheesy, and oddly comforting. I had three servings.

For mains, what’s new are chuletón de cordero or pan-seared Australian lamb T-bone steak with tomato fondue and feta cheese, salt-baked dorada or Japanese sea bream with salsa verde, and osso bucco de ternera or braised whole beef shank so fall-off-the-bone tender.

Craving for rice? Then it’s time for Paella Iberico Secreto, cooked in beef stock, with pork cracklings, tomato, and haricot vert for sides.

So it was another long lunch, extending to afternoon, long after siesta hour, making memories over the new menu offerings like, chopitos a la plancha or grilled baby squid with garlic, chili, tomatoes, and salsa verde.

A meal, whether at noon or at night, at El Cirkulo is one of very few reliable things in life—like slow mornings or lazy afternoons—that are guaranteed to give you that warm, fuzzy feeling when you look back on them.

Just like this lunch—long, leisurely, and easy like Sunday. Incidentally, El Cirkulo is now open even on Sunday, perfect for family get-togethers. It’s open Monday to Sunday for lunch, from 11: 30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., and for dinner, from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m.

El Cirkulo is at GF, MilkyWay Building, 900 A. Arnaiz Avenue corner Paseo de Roxas, Makati, Philippines. Call +63 927 136 1305. Elcirkulo.com