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The resurrection of 'Alma'

The cuisine highlights seafood and the creativity of chef Luis

Published Jun 20, 2024 08:59 am
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There’s a new dining destination in Poblacion, and if you're one of the original Siargao faithful, you’ll be delighted to know that chef Luis Martinez has "resurrected" Alma right here in Poblacion, Makati. For those unfamiliar, Alma was one of the hottest dining spots in Siargao in 2021. Luis launched the restaurant during the pandemic, but Typhoon Odette in December of that year claimed the establishment as one of its casualties.

Luckily, restaurateurs Carlo and Jackie Lorenzana had already experienced Alma in Siargao. As fate would have it, they forged a partnership with chef Luis, leading to the establishment of Terraza Martinez in BGC. While a new Alma Siargao is set to formally open soon, the partners saw an opportunity to establish Alma's own home in Makati upon discovering a cozy second-floor space on the quieter side of Poblacion.

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Tomato Tartare with White Anchovies

The cuisine at Alma highlights seafood and the creativity of chef Luis, who mentions he wasn’t formally trained. It's worth noting that the non-seafood dishes are equally intriguing. One standout starter, the Roasted Tomato Tartare & White Anchovies with EVOO, pickled mayo, fried capers, roasted almonds, and basil pearls, immediately became my favorite. It's healthy, delicious, and the boquerones add a special touch—a dish unique to Alma. If I were a creature of habit, I would order this every time I return!

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Smoked Duck Breast and Seared Scallops.

The other starters I got to try were the Yellowfin Carpaccio with ginger-lime mayo and baby greens, the Roasted Smoked Duck Breast, with capers, infused cherry tomatoes, EVOO demi-sauce, and tuna mayo, and the Seared Scallops, with garlic, smoked chorizo butter, and Manchego cheese. The cheese and butter combination made the Scallops dish a true winner. The Duck Breast was an easy choice if one looks for Duck, and it’s not that often that we get a Duck dish that’s different from the tried and tested - this one is different in a good way.

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Yellowfin Carpaccio

The Yellowfin Tuna Carpaccio, with mayo simulating a marbling effect on thinly sliced tuna, is a great dish to share with friends. In fact, this became a recurring theme: how the portions are ideal for sharing and tasting, allowing guests to sample several dishes. And if you find favorites, simply double up on those menu items.

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Crispy Pork Knuckles

Among the main courses, keep an eye out for the Crispy Pork Knuckles with Liver Sauce and pickled green mango. Traditionally associated with Germany and Oktoberfest, this dish gets a Filipino twist with homemade liver sauce. It's an excellent choice for fans of Lechon or Cochinillo. I particularly enjoyed the universally crispy and flavorful skin!

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Crispy Black Sea Bass

The Crispy Black Sea Bass "Basquaise" holds special significance as a traditional Valencian dish for chef Luis. Stir-fried vegetables in tomato garlic sauce and confit potatoes complete the dish. Despite its simplicity, the flavors and textures are remarkable, making this one of my go-to seafood dishes at Alma.

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The Lemon Merengue Millefeuille and The Pumpkin Tart and Cinammon Ice Cream

I had the opportunity to sample two of their desserts. The Citrus and Meringue Millefeuille, featuring citrus custard, filo pastry, cinnamon, and streusel, resembles their take on a Key Lime pie or Lemon tart.

However, the undisputed dessert winner for me was the Roasted Caramelized Pumpkin with wild honey and cinnamon ice cream. It wasn’t overly sweet and offered a distinct and unique flavor profile.

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Lourdes Oreña, Chef Luis Martinez, and Ces Oreña-Drilon

As of my writing this, Alma is still in its soft opening phase. However, word is spreading fast, and when I visited, the place was already bustling with small groups of dining enthusiasts. So, book your table now and stay ahead of the curve.

Alma offers a more relaxed, informal atmosphere compared to Terraza Martinez. It feels like a beach-vibe bar with exceptional food. Alma has truly made a comeback, and I believe in its potential!

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MB Lifestyle Online Food and Travel Philip Cu Unjieng
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