The Sanriku area is located in Northeastern Japan and is known for its beautiful rugged coastline and the high quality of its diverse seafood. Parts of the Miyagi Prefecture are within the Sanriku area; Miyagi has been popularized by the manga and anime series Haikyu.
Hightower, a noted importer of sake and Japanese products, approached Ikomai chef James Antolin to create a special dinner that would highlight Sanriku seafood. James then involved chefs Carlo Miguel and Michael Yap to collaborate on a six-hands menu that would complement and match this notion of diversity in ingredients and dishes. Let me say early on that it was a dinner that wonderfully showcased why the sterling reputation of Japanese cuisine hinges on the freshness of ingredients, simplicity, and the deft interplay of flavors and textures.
The first course was a single seed oyster, raw on the half shell with lemon. So simple, but so fresh and sweet. If this was a portent of things to come, it would be a great night.
From Chef Carlo, we had scallops with curry, calamansi, kaffir, coriander, and mint. The curry really worked with the kaffir, which was a surprise, turning the course into a version of scallops tartare. This came so unexpectedly, and for many, it turned out to be their favorite course.
A play on textures was represented by the next course: oyster and abalone with ikura, cauliflower, cucumber, elderflower, and wasabi. This was something really playful, with the cucumber crispy and the nori acting as the crunch.
Mike’s Crab and Uni was the first hot course. Reminiscent of a Coquilles Saint Jacques, with its creamy texture, Mike had created a Crab Legs Cannelloni, with Fennel and Leeks, topped with a Uni Sabayon. This was lush and really went down well with the diners.
James’ Mélange was a play on paella chahan, with scallops and crab claw, complemented by uni and ikura, all added to the generous portion of Japonica rice. The scallops were chopped up to mix with the rice, and this was a fitting way to bring the dinner towards its close.
Dessert came from Tochi - a Lemon Tart, with Caramelized White Chocolate, and Pink Peppercorn. Tart and sweet at the same time.
The different Sake and liquors brought out by the Sake sommelier were excellent, according to the guest seated beside me. Unfortunately, I did not partake. The Yuzu Sake was the unanimous "bestseller."
Congratulations to the chefs, to HighTower and to Sanriku!