Very few events indicate a city’s progress: the opening of a shopping mall, a large events arena, or an LJC restaurant. It is difficult to describe what makes an LJC outlet different without telling the man behind the brand.
Forty-five years after a group of the country's top artists, writers and thinkers gathered casually after office hours at Larry’s (Lorenzo J. Cruz) Malate library, Kit Tatad, Blas Ople, Adrian Cristobal, Andres Cristobal-Cruz among them. Many of those thinkers are gone, and so is Larry, now better known to one and all as LJC, the genius who created the chain of restaurants that are like no other.
Larry was not a chef or a painter. He was a good writer, editor, and administrator. At one time, he served as the Undersecretary for the Ministry of Public Information. His excellent taste in food, art, fashion, and other things made him a much sought-after host and guest at top social events.
I first ran across LJC’s name on the pages of the prestigious Hong Kong-based weekly Asia Magazine in the mid-1960s along with other Filipino bylines such as Noli Galang, Romy Vitug Mario Co, Mauro Galang, and Dick Baldovino. Moving to Manila, his circle of thinkers first referred to him as “the son of Abe Cruz.”
My generation of writers called the older Cruz “Mang Abe,” who treated us like his own kin. He took us to lunch at then-unknown Chinese panciterias, where he ordered exotic dishes for his wide-eyed neophytes. One memorable meal was at the Grove in Ermita, the first Filipino buffet restaurant. Mang Abe discussed Pinoy dishes from many different regions but especially showed great love for the Pampango cuisine of his childhood.
Our group looked forward to those outings, during which our host regaled us with anecdotes about being an artist, diplomat, essayist, political analyst, and journalist. Looking back, I realized how much influence Mang Abe had on his son Larry.
Art and Coffee – Larry’s first outlet, if one could call it that, sprang from his Malate library where he met regularly with friends amidst a collection of books and artwork, attracting artists and collectors. It did not take long before the place became a popular after-hours refuge with its first real menu of favorite Pinoy classics.
Larry searched for and served excellent brewed coffee. Manila was soon talking about his “tsokolate” made tableside in authentic “batirols.” Cafe Adriatico, named after the street it occupies, became a landmark in no time.
It did not take long for diners to refer to Cafe Adriatico as an LJC enterprise. LJC became synonymous with comfortable, relaxing joints that serve good food at reasonable prices. As years passed, LJC ventured into thematic eateries: Camp Gourmet for American chow, Bistro Lorenzo for Italian dishes, Bistro Remedios for regional Pinoy classics, and Bollywood for spicy Indian specialties. Along the way, he opened the first Filipino restaurant in Washington D.C.
Larry was a real Renaissance Man; more than that, he was a faithful friend through good times and bad. It is difficult to pass through Remedios without remembering LJC the man with the impish smile and laughing eyes, who brought new life to the country’s dining landscape.
All the LJC outlets are noted for eclectic furniture and decor, complementing menus that offer both familiar classics and new preparations that invite diners to new delights. Standing out among old furniture and decor are sketches by Abe Cruz – Mang Abe – now known to a new generation as “the father of LJC”.