Tuscany in autumn is a great respite from the typhoons and scorching sunshine of Manila in October and November. I accompanied Issa to attend the wedding of her good friend, Annika, and we flew to Italy; making Florence our home base for six days. Mornings were chilly at seven to nine degrees, but by midday, we’d be basking in glorious fall sunshine and temperatures would be a comfortable 16 to 18 degrees. And if one does the tourist rounds at this time of the year, it’s less crowded. It might even be possible to secure skip-the-line passes on a one to two-day notice. 

The Palazzo Pitti and attached Boboli Gardens, the fabled Cattedrale di Maria del Fiore and its Filippo Brunelleschi Duomo, the Piazza Della Repubblica, the Uffizi Gallery and the Piazza della Signoria with the Neptune fountain, the Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze with Michelangelo’s David- it’s like walking into a time warp where history, culture, the arts, and the Renaissance come to vivid reality. Plus, we have physical, three-dimensional testaments to engage and interact with. 

The Duomo of Florence took over 142 years to build, and work began in 1293. The biggest challenge then was how to build a dome (Duomo translates to house) of that size, when no technology existed for such a wide base. As our guide explained, the construction of the Cathedral was in direct response to Siena and its Cathedral, each republic competing on who could be bigger and better. Remember that Italy as a country only exists dating back to 1861; before that, each big city center would establish its own Republic, and try to claim dominion of its surrounding area. As our guide grimly laughed, recalling that Italy’s history is one of shifting allegiances and constant grappling for power, control, and wealth. 

When you find yourself at the 16th century Boboli Gardens, which lie beyond the Palazzo Pitti, it’s a great example of formal Italian landscaping executed in honor of a family, in this case, the Medicis. By the Uffizi, you’ll find the Neptune statue and fountain, dominating the Piazza della Signoria; alongside the mounted statue of Cosimo I de Medici.  

I’ll write about dining in Florence in a dedicated feature but I’ll say here that one of the staying wonders of Florence is how the history and culture merges with modern life so effortlessly. You won’t see skyscrapers or dedicated business districts, but the city hums and thrives just the same as any modern metropolis. I’m a sucker for bookstores, so imagine my surprise when I walked into the Giunti Odeon and saw my two loves of novels and cinema merged into one retail concept - the Giunti Odeon libreria e cinema! My corner of heaven on earth just came to life!

The converted theater/cinema removed all the orchestra seats to slot in the bookstore, while the screen was updated, and the sound system upgraded to Dolby. The balcony and box seats were kept so that those wanting to indulge in cinema and cinema-related events can enjoy, simultaneously with the bookselling. For me, it was close to crazy, yet it works beautifully!

The City of Firenze today is really about four distinct historical districts, each district dominated by a Cathedral with a respective religious order in charge - there’s Santo Spirito, Santa Maria Novela, San Giovanni, and Santa Croce. Spirito is Augustinian, Maria Novela is Dominican, while Santa Croce is Franciscan. Each district has its own personality and to this day, can be competitive. 

If in Florence, reserve one day to drive to Siena and San Gimignano. This will be the chance to understand what is so magical about Tuscany and experience the medieval period coming to life. 

Remember what I said about the Duomo in Florence and how it was competing with Siena? Well, the Siena Cathedral is one magnificent structure, and dates back to work commencing in 1215. Siena is also home to the July/August Palio di Siena, a traditional horse race, held at the Piazza del Campo. It consists of ten bareback riders representing the city’s wards, and dates back to the 16th century. 

While the Firenze Duomo will take your breath away in terms of sheer size, proportion, and grandeur, both Issa and I found the Siena Duomo to be more impressive in terms of artistry, and how every section of the floor, walls, and ceilings “spoke” with imagery and visual poetry. 

On the drive from Siena to San Gimignano; one can drop by the castle structure of Monteriggioni. For those into video games, they’ll recognize the structure for how it’s incorporated in the Assassin’s Creed game, and it’s referenced in Dante’s Divine Comedy. Thirty minutes is more than enough for your stop here.

San Gimignano is a fairy tale come to life with its numerous towers, towers that represent the mercantile families that rose in prominence, and constructed towers to cement their reputation. It’s a medieval walled town, that’s now a UNESCO Heritage site. It sits in the medieval Via Francigena, so it’s a regular stopover for hiking pilgrims. Both Romanesque and Gothic towers dominate the dream-like skyline of this town. 

Tuscany entices and lives up to its invitation. The lines of cypress trees, the olive tree plantations, the rolling hills, the vineyards, the fields bathed in golden Tuscan sunshine… They all add to the splendor of the cities and towns.