1983 means 41 years, and that’s how long the Japanese restaurant Sugi has been around. Greenbelt Arcade was the very first location, and there was even a Sugi in Greenhills. And yes, it’s in Makati where Sugi has become such an institution, the first dining haven for many generations of Japanese cuisine enthusiasts. My three sons were all born in the 1990s, and to this day, Sugi is their go-to when they’re craving classic Japanese dishes. When we’re deciding where to go for Sunday lunch, it’s the option that gets an immediate thumbs-up.
So when Sugi at Greenbelt 2 closed earlier this year, the question arose: How soon before its latest reincarnation would rise? Well, fortunately for all of us Sugi-lovers, the answer was, "not too long." September saw the Garden Towers Sugi open its doors, located in the building across from the Holiday Inn entrance at Glorietta. It may not have a second floor, but the private rooms are there, and there is a more expansive, uncluttered feel to the floor layout.
If you speak to the management, they’ll proudly say not much has changed with the menu. All of the old favorites can be found, and the inside front cover lists the month’s specials and new dishes—good for those ready to experiment or who trust the process enough to try something different.
My sons, once seated at Sugi, know exactly what they’ll order, the timing of when the dishes should be brought out, and when the new ones should arrive. At Sugi, they’re creatures of habit ‘in extremis’—asking for the menu is just for show, a mere formality. We laugh about this, as each time we are at Sugi, they’ll go through the motions of perusing the menu, only to order the same things.
At Sugi, it’s all about the sashimi, the maki, and for my youngest, his handroll temaki. The variations are whether it’s salmon or maguro tuna, or in the case of the temaki, my youngest asks for both to be combined in one handroll—truly the best!
Then there’s the inevitable order of agedashi tofu, served in a size perfect for popping into your mouth, making you feel like you’ve come closer to culinary heaven. My middle son always checks if the koebi karaage is available—crispy, deep-fried baby shrimp that you dip in vinegar and eat whole, including the head, legs, and tail.
A new monthly special is the Gyu Gomoku Mushroom Teppan: cubes of beef tenderloin with bell peppers and five kinds of mushrooms—shimeji, shiitake, enokidake, kikurage, and king mushroom. It’s cooked Teppan-style with the chef’s special sauce. I really liked this one, especially the onions that came with the dish.
And if you want to revert to the beef teppan with its bean sprouts, you’ll get no argument from me. This is also one of the dishes my sons order without fail. My eldest is very particular about the timing of when this is brought to the table, as it should be served right after the ebi tempura has been laid down.
Welcome back, Sugi. It’s a testament to how much you’re loved and missed that it took me a couple of weekends to finally get a confirmed booking. And yes, why change what’s been, and remains, a winning formula? The variety and diversity of the menu are backed by the quality and consistency of what comes out of the kitchen. Sugi is like that dependable friend who’s been around longer than you care to remember—but you miss them so badly when they temporarily vanish.
