Eight active bombs were found inside along with weapons and bottles of sake. A darker time in our history, the tunnel was where Filipino prisoners of war were tortured.
Have you ever been to Isabela?
If not, this is the time
Mar 29, 2023 04:47 AM
At a glance
Featured image: HOLY LANDMARK St. Matthias is one of Isabela's six heritage churches. It is the only church in the country with a cylindrical belfry
I’ll be honest. The province of Isabela is a part of the Philippines that I have often dismissed, thinking there must be nothing for me to see there. Like most sweeping generalizations, it turned out to be wrong and rather ignorant. My husband’s family is from a small town in this province and he often urged me to get to know it better. “You write about other countries but you have yet to explore some of the hidden gems in your own,” he told me once. I felt the need to rectify that real quick and turns out, I’ve been sleeping on a part of the country that’s so rich in culture and nature that’s easily accessible.
So off I went for a weekend with Stephanie Ongkiko, my friend and fellow TV reporter about a decade ago. It was a girls’ trip that started on a Friday morning as we took a Cebu Pacific flight to Cauayan. It took less than an hour. We even arrived earlier than the time printed on our ticket. One of the things that made me reluctant to visit Isabela before was the drive up, which used to take up to nine hours from Manila. The flight is a great alternative, quick and convenient. We were out the door of Cauayan airport, luggage in tow, in under half an hour.
Steeped in history
Named after Spain’s only queen regnant, Isabela’s long been known as an agricultural part of the country but its local government has also started to bolster their tourism efforts as there’s so much to see. The province is home to six of the country’s heritage churches, some dating as old as the 1600s. They attract mostly local tourists, especially during Holy Week for the practice of Visita Iglesia. For foreigners and non-Catholics, they offer great insight into the Philippines’ colonial past and how it shaped our society today. They’re also great examples of stunning architecture. The ultra-baroque St. Matthias in the municipality of Tumauini is known for its red bricks and being the only one with a cylindrical belfry in the country. Cauayan’s Our Lady of the Pillar Parish Church is a calm oasis in one of the province’s most urbanized areas. There’s also St. Rose of Lima in Gamu and San Pablo Church from a town of the same name. San Pablo is the oldest church in the province, damaged by bombings during WWII and an earthquake in the ’50s. A smaller church was rebuilt within the bones of the old one, resulting in a unique patio nestled between the new church and the old one’s façade.
Isabela is also home to Hacienda de San Luis, a former tabacalera turned museum honoring the province’s indigenous people and its history. It’s also a spot for eco-tourism with a science centrum children will find enjoyable.
One of our most memorable stops is a 40-meter-long Japanese tunnel used during WWII. Discovered by students out for playtime at a nearby school, the tunnel was renovated and opened in 2016. Eight active bombs were found inside along with weapons and bottles of sake. A darker time in our history, the tunnel was where Filipino prisoners of war were tortured. Some were later killed. Tour guides take visitors through each enclave within the tunnel that depicts a scene from the war so as not to forget this dark time in history. In true Filipino fashion, the area around the tunnel was converted to commemorate forgiveness and friendship, celebrating the culture of both countries.
Keeping nature accessible and convenient
In the capital of Ilagan, one will find a mix of modern comforts and homages to the traditional. Dancing fountains light up the night sky while a gigantic butaca is a daytime attraction. A nod to the most important piece of furniture in the home of Isabeleños, a butaca is a chair used for relaxation. Its long arms double as leg rests, perfect after a long day in the fields.
A short ride from the city center is the Ilagan Sanctuary situated at the foot of the Sierra Madre mountain range. Some parts have been converted into eco-tourism activity sites where people can swim, go on zip lines and canopy walks. For those looking for untouched nature, a 30-minute hike from the sanctuary will bring you to Pinzal falls. Nearby the petting zoo are three connected caves that are perfect for beginner explorers. Steph and I are new to outdoor activities and we survived even the fastest zip line in Luzon which can be found inside the sanctuary.
Also great for hiking is Camp Vizcarra in the nearby municipality of Ramon. Runners, meanwhile, will find Magat Dam’s Tourism Complex a dreamy location as it offers unparalleled views of lush greenery surrounding the area. Those who love flowers will enjoy having coffee inside Meraki Garden, a pandemic hobby-turned-botanical paradise dedicated to bougainvillaeas by Isabeleña Lyn Maracaida.
Foodie destination
Those who travel for food also have lots of reasons to go. Aling Luring’s in Cauayan offers Filipino comfort food while Mansaya’s Barrio Grill in Ramon offers the prettiest boodle fight platter featuring Filipino favorites. From grilled meat, seafood, and even dessert. I was told during the visit that Isabeleños are pancit snobs because of the Pancit Cabagan. Al dente miki noodles (egg) served with a savory sauce made of broth as well as fish and soy sauce. We tried it at Zein’s Panciteria and their version comes topped with vegetables, boiled eggs, and chicharon. I’d travel again—even by land—just for this.
A full weekend wasn’t enough to explore everything as we barely scratched the surface. There’s more beyond the Sierra Madre, such as pristine beaches and islands just a little off the eastern coast of the country. All the more reason to come back and get to know Isabela a little deeper.