‘In Pampinay, we create wearable art.’
Fashion has been viewed my may as a form of art. There is a charm that lies both in the process of crafting a garment and seeing it in its final form. It makes people think and instantly transforms its wearer. As we like to define here in Manila Bulletin Lifestyle, fashion is the art of appearances. While many see it as something that is all about outer beauty, fashion, especially in the Philippines, is a way to celebrate and bring new life to age-old crafts.
That is what visual artists Pamela Gotangco Hupp and Christian Belaro set out to do, to make wearable art. Through their brand Pampinay, the two remarkable women not only succeed in putting more substance into style but also helped Filipina workers survive the pandemic.
Established during the height of the pandemic in Switzerland, Pampinay was first a social project aiming to give livelihood to displaced seamstresses in Manila. Eventually, the initiative branched out and helped indigenous groups by incorporating their tapestries into the brand’s designs.
“I am not a fashion designer,” Pamela, 48, co-founder of fashion label Pampinay, makes it clear in an interview. “I keep telling people that I cannot call myself a fashion designer because that involves hours of training. I’m still a visual designer, but in Pampinay, we create wearable art.”
Slow fashion is at the core of Pampinay, producing pieces based only on the demand and paying respect to the materials and resources they have. Starting out with one loom weaver, the brand now works with four weaving cooperatives in different parts of the country. Its design process begins with Pamela’s art being generated into digital form by Christian, which is then printed on textile. The print is then sewn with local textiles by Filipino seamstresses, with indigenous artisans adding embellishments to the finished works.
During Pampinay's recent show held last April 5 in Makati City, Manila Bulletin Lifestyle got the chance to chat with the 2021 Pamana ng Pilipino Award recipient. Pamela goes into detail about the story of Pampinay, her transition from being an artist into a fashion entrepreneur, and why it is important for us Filipinos to champion our heritage.
Hello, Pamela! First off, what inspired you to pursue a fashion career apart from being an artist?
Our move into fashion is just to answer the call of the problem the pandemic has posed to all of us. At that time, there was a need to do something. So, how can I use my art to answer these problems? I used to donate artworks and paintings to auctions before but that is not going to be sustainable. I thought that we should create something that will provide livelihood and opportunities for the seamstresses in Manila who lost their job. At the same time, to also help the weavers.
That’s how I moved from art to fashion. But I’m not a fashion designer. We focus on classic designs that are versatile. As a Filipino migrant, I know how it is for us to want to wear something Filipino. I want something that is easy to wear, that I could go to a party anywhere and I represent the Philippines. We also want to stick to the core of Pampinay, which is slow fashion. We are very observant of our supply chain. We ethically source our raw materials. We go straight from the weavers. We don’t overproduce. We only produce according to the demand. We don’t have a factory. That is why we have people who have sewing machines in their place. It is about the bayanihan spirit.
Can you tell us about the collections Pampinay has released so far?
The first collection was about Abra. we used binakol. We started with one loom weaver, we now have four cooperatives that we are sourcing the materials from. We expanded too with inabel. What I’m happy about now is the inclusion of the Tboli’s work from Lake Sebu. Some of the pieces we showcased today have the embroidery of the tribe. In 2019, I went there with Zarah Juan and Georgitta Pimentel Puyat to visit the Tboli tribe. Initially, I was making a series of art for the women of Lake Sebu. But because of the pandemic and all of my shows being canceled, I didn’t finish the series. I promised them that part of the proceeds will go to their livelihood. I told them we will incorporate their embroidery and weaving into our new collection.
In Pampinay, a lot of artisans are working to create one piece. It is really amazing because a piece goes to many places. I design the painting in Switzerland, Chrisitan translates it to digital, weavers in Abra and beaders in Lake Sebu put their touch on the piece, and Manila is where all the finishings are done. There are a lot of stories in one piece. We want to encourage thoughtful buying. That you purchase a garment because of the meaning, story, and culture.
How about the artworks that went into the design, what inspired you to do them?
During the time of the pandemic, when many cannot go to the Philippines, I wasn’t at my best. I’m not a pop artist, but suddenly, I started creating art with a woman that says “I want pinakbet.” For me, at that time, it was more than a dish, pinakbet is my life in the Philippines. I posted it on social media and I got overwhelming support. I think everyone has their own pinakbet that they are missing during the pandemic. A lot of people can identify with the artwork. That’s when Christian said, “Maybe this is the time to start Pampinay. We can help weavers and seamstresses and bring humor to the Filipino migrants abroad.” Then it continues with “Huy, magtira kayo ng lechon” and “Wala nang rice, pucha!” artworks. Part of my advocacy is uniting the Filipino migrants by highlighting the beauty of our culture and humor.
Was it hard for you and Christian to transition from being artists into fashion entrepreneurs?
It is a challenge. The creative process is the same, it just involved more technical aspects. It is not a solo team anymore. I may be driven by my emotions with my art, it is very personal. Being an entrepreneur, you have so many things to consider. It is a beautiful thing in a way because you are all together.
Christian and I have been friends for many decades. Back then, we used to contribute to a magazine. We have different strengths. Christian is really good with production, she is in charge of the graphics. On the other hand, I’m on the marketing and building the business side. I would not be able to do this without Christian, our team in the Philippines, and the volunteer teams around the world.
Why is it important for women to help other women?
There is always a misconception that women try to compete with each other all the time. Women do benefit from collaboration more than competition. If we want to achieve gender equality in all fields, we must support each other. You do not ruin each other. You uplift each other. It’s one of the ways we women can have a voice in this world.
Why is it a must that we champion our culture?
It is an integral part of our community, particularly weaving. If weavers are not making money out of it, if they are not teaching the younger generation to do the weaving, it will die. We don’t want that because it is beautiful. Why did Christian Louboutin make the Manilacaba? Because our culture is beautiful. Why does it need to be Christian Louboutin to let us know that and show it in the global arena?
Pampinay’s pieces are available at www.filipinoshoppingnetwork.com and on Instagram.
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