In a time when everyone is jumping on the latest trends, adapting to the newest core crazes, and trying their hand at Hollywood’s method dressing, the designers of Bench Fashion Week (BFW) Holiday 2024 have proved that the best style moments always have a personal story.
For years, the runway of Bench Fashion Week has been a breeding ground for emerging creatives, a platform for seasoned designers, and a mirror of the vibrant heritage of the Philippines. This season, its mission continues as it welcomes new faces and invites some of its friends and past champions to share their visions and imagined worlds through a three-day style fest.
Each collection that parades on the runway presents narratives and truths. They are striking all thanks to their fresh silhouettes, use of modern materials, and blending of contemporary and classic techniques. The designers are courageous and gutsy as they reveal parts of themselves through their designs and challenge today’s notions by playing with contrasting ideas.
How to Survive on Land and Sea
For her first collection in the Philippines, Miss Universe 2022 R’Bonney Gabriel merges the allure of resort wear with the modern vibe of streetwear. Dubbed How to Survive on Land and Sea, the line is an ode to her hometown in Texas and the Philippines.
“I grew up in Houston, Texas, which is a big city. So I'm incorporating a lot of streetwear elements. When I think of the Philippines, I think of the beautiful landscape and beaches—resort wear and luxurious beachwear,” the designer says. “Streetwear and resort wear are two contrasting elements. I want to play with the balancing of both of those aesthetics.”
Known for her sustainable fashions, R’Bonney uses denim, discarded fabric, and old clothes to make the collection. She incorporates techniques such as patchwork and drapery, creating silhouettes with ultra-feminine flares and raw finishes. Adorning her pieces are shells painted with a chromatic tone, a nod to her recent adventures in the country.
Bōryokudan
Anthony Ramirez is one of the go-to designers for celebrities when it comes to opulent and classic pieces. This time, he showcases the dark side of his aesthetic through the Bōryokudan collection. Through it, the designer imagines a fashion dialogue between the machoism of the yakuza and the urban edge of ’90s Japanese gangster culture.
“Back in the ‘90s, I always watched Japanese cartoons. When I was in high school, I was very much exposed to Japanese culture,” Anthony recalls. “I want to know what it would look like if yakuza and the gangsters from the ’90s happened in the same era.”
What Anthony presents on the runway are menswear pieces, including tailored suits and boxy coats and jackets in combinations of leather, French cashmere, and silk satin. His womenswear pieces are equally edgy and sultry with their cutout details, leather fabrication, and sleek silhouettes.
Kashieca by Rhett Eala
For his latest collection with Kashieca, seasoned Filipino designer Rhett Eala imagines what a dancer would wear off stage. The result is a collection of neutral pieces, combining sophistication with a graphic edge. “There are a lot of blacks and whites,” the designer says about the collection. “It is feminine but not so girly—more woman.”
Think of Cate Blanchett’s looks in the movie The Curious Case of Benjamin Button. Rhett’s muses are dressed in easy clothing featuring voluminous skirts, dainty tops, coordinating pieces with miniature bows, and luxurious satin and other lightweight fabrics. The looks are paired with chunky shades, headscarves, and headbands to round out the off-duty feel.
Pagkatao
As one of the champions of the Bench Design Awards, Bon Hansen’s designs have graced the BFW runway many times. This season, he showcases a full collection, featuring 20 pieces in homage to the 2000 film
Markova: Comfort Gay. Titled Pagkatao, the collection features reimagined Filipinowear and gender-fluid pieces.
“The movie is very sentimental for me growing up,” Bon says. “It is one of the most memorable films I’ve watched as a gay kid. It is very relevant and personal.”
To create it, Bon plays with the contrasting ideas of femininity and masculinity. He sends down the runway his modern iteration of the terno and signature bibs. The highlights of the collection are his painted tailored suits and maxi dresses styled with delicate lace gloves.
I Don’t
Another Bench Design Awards winner, Antonina Amoncio returns to BFW with a wedding collection. Her I Don’t collection centers on her experiences, social issues, and sentiments.
“I wanted to articulate that this is a wedding I’ll never have,” Antonina muses. “It is a juxtaposition of my reality and an abstraction of an imaginary wedding. This is a way for me to show my vulnerable side. It is something I’ve been wanting to do.”
Not for the typical wedding couple, the black and white collection serves airy and romantic looks with whimsical silhouettes, intricate beading, and fabric manipulations. Antonina’s contemporary aesthetic is seen in her structured pieces and relaxed suits.
Chapter 2 - Universe H
Designer Jenni Contreras explores the influence of artificial intelligence (AI) in her newest collection for the clothing brand Human. Through Chapter 2 - Universe H, she brings to life on the runway a simulated world where AI technology, deep fakes, and conspiracy theories reign supreme.
“It is a simulated world modeled after the 1970s and 1960s retro sci-fi movies,” Jenni describes. “This collection shows how I think people would dress themselves or morph themselves when they are plugged in. I want this collection to be a reminder not to lose our humanity amid all these technological advances.”
Like beings from a Spielberg movie or the flamboyant Capitol residents in The Hunger Games franchise, her muses grace the runway wearing contemporary pieces that are otherworldly but still current. The designs feature Matrix code-like patterns, psychedelic prints, and metallic elements, making them look futuristic and almost alien-like.
The Dawn of a New Age
Seasoned designer Chito Vijandre takes a trip down memory lane as he presents a collection inspired by the glam, colors, and exuberance of the 1960s and 1970s. Dubbed The Dawn of a New Age, the collection features ornate pieces that pay homage to the era’s disco scene and space-age style.
“I chose those eras because they represented newfound freedom,” Chito says. “I think it also reflects on our age now.”
Pieces imbued with textures and embellishments grace his runway. A bevy of models in chic gypsy looks exude a sultry and exotic sense, much like singer and actress Cher’s looks in the era. While his chainmail pieces nod to Barbarella’s domination.
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