Nestled in the bustling metropolis of Makati City, a new restaurant is generating considerable buzz with its elegant and intriguing ambiance. Situated on the ground floor of Pacquiao Mansion on HV Dela Costa Street, it presents a distinctive and refreshing take on the Philippine dining experience.
First impressions
I first discovered Oak & Smoke (O/S) on Instagram, where their very first photo showcased the restaurant’s interiors. The art deco-inspired design immediately caught my eye, complemented by a glass roof that bathes the space with warm, natural light. The dark, rich tones of the leather cushions and wooden tables and chairs add a touch of luxury, while the sophisticated matte gold light fixtures further enhance the ambiance.
It was almost 6 p.m. when I had the chance to visit, and the setting took on a different ambiance compared to the impression I had from the photo posted online. The evening light created a more intimate and cozy atmosphere, highlighting the restaurant's elegant features in a new and enchanting way. At the center of the ceiling hangs a lighted installation piece that captures the essence of O/S. Its flowing, ethereal design creates a sense of movement, reflecting the restaurant's enigmatic atmosphere.
Chefs at work
I quickly took my seat, which is across the semi-open kitchen where I witnessed Chef Sean Jorgensen, Chef Anna Bautista, and their team bring to life their delectable visions over oak, fire, and smoke. “I want guests who dine with us to see us, to know that what we are doing here isn’t a cookie cutter cutout. It’s got a living vibe to it. What we are building is a lifestyle, a true chef-driven concept where the chef is there every night, and we are hands-on with curation,” shares Chef Sean.
Together, the two chefs bring a wealth of experience from their work outside the Philippines. Chef Anna refined her culinary skills through French and California-Italian influences in San Francisco, U.S.A. which include her time at the Michelin-starred contemporary restaurant, Madera. She moved to Shanghai afterward, where she met Chef Sean and established Blue Plate Consulting together.
On the other hand, Chef Sean specializes in Southern cuisine, which extends beyond just barbecuing ribs and briskets. “It’s actually a lot more—cajun, creole, low country, gullah, and soul. I like to think I dabble in soul food,” he explains. His 20-year experience in Shanghai has given him a unique flair for blending his expertise with Asian influences.
“The contrast between our cooking styles is evident. I paint with broader strokes and Anna uses a finer approach,” he adds.
Smoke and soul
So why the use of wood in the first place? Chef Sean reminisced that it all started with him serving one of his well-loved briskets to a friend who eventually became an investor. This was the catalyst to the birth of the restaurant.
Smoke and fire is in the heart of O/S. “Our menu incorporates elements of smoke on our dishes be it in smoking almonds, pork jowls, or salmon. We want to be known for these hints of smoke and cooking over coal and wood. So anything that has to do with grill, smoke, and fire, that’s me,” shares Chef Sean.
Binchotan, which means “white charcoal” in Japanese, is made from oak wood. Its energy-efficient properties—such as long, clean burning, high heat retention, low ash production, ease of extinguishing, and intensifying flavors—validate the duo’s choice. Additionally, it is one of the few types of burning wood that do not harbor termites and other pests. "I want you to be able to smell the restaurant. When you leave, I want you to have a pleasant memory of the quality of burning hardwood,” he tells Manila Bulletin.
What to try
“What we do at O/S is take the concepts and elements of barbecue and smoke, and apply them to a variety of different tastes,” he further expounds. They even use sampaloc wood to smoke sauces, proteins, and seasonings.
That evening, my first bite was a Smoked Salmon Nori Chip served with beet, passion fruit, miso, sesame, and perilla leaf. The aromatic smoke combined with the crunchy bite was heavenly. Next was the Grilled Eggplant & Whipped Feta Tofu, a crowd favorite. Prawn Toast and White Snapper Crudo are starters that are also worth trying.
The binchotan-cooked meats, marinated in Asian flavors, were served on skewers for easy consumption. These included Octopus with gochujang honey mustard and zucchini kimchi, Chicken in “Ayam Taliwang” sambal, and Blue Marlin with miso-yaki, furikake, puffed rice, and wasabi.
We also sampled a variety of grilled dishes such as Rib-Eye with garlic chips and three sauces of gochujang grain mustard, Yakiniku steak sauce, and 3-pepper citrus salt; Frenched Pork Chop with fire-roasted grapes, pickled onions, and lychee hoisin; Shrimp Garlic Noodles with crab fat lemon butter sauce, cherry tomatoes, and cilantro in egg noodles; and Charred Cauliflower with smoked doenjang garlic cream and lemon-parmesan crumble.
“Make room for dessert,” the duo reminds us. “Especially the Banana Miso Tres Leches and 520 Wo Ai Ni (means ‘I love you’ in Mandarin),” which features dark chocolate crèmeux, raspberry sorbet, gateau au chocolat, and shiso.
More than just dining
Aside from these dishes, the venue also features two cocktail bars and a spacious al fresco dining area adorned with greenery. Chef Anna was quick to add that they host guest bartenders on special days and weekends. “We’re aiming to build that kind of culture for happy hour and after dinner.” she says. Master Mixologist Louie Frigillano is also a mainstay, crafting his signature drinks and unique cocktails.
“We want O/S to be a gathering place for those who live nearby. We want the space to be comfortable enough for a quick meal or a glass of wine after work, but also special enough for celebrating milestones,” she adds.
Chef Sean chimes in, “We're creating a social dining atmosphere. So it's not just for two people, but it's better for six or more. From my experience living here, Filipinos like to eat in numbers, always a group of friends, and that's great!”
O/S is more than just a dining destination, it’s a sensory journey that captures the essence of modern barbecue while celebrating diverse culinary traditions.
Whether you’re indulging in their smoky starters, savoring the perfectly grilled meats, or delighting in the thoughtfully curated desserts, a visit to O/S promises a feast for both the palate and the soul.