When we talk about ultimate luxury, it is hard not to think of jewelry. They are the perfect finishing touch to one’s look. They are among the great examples of where human craft meets nature’s masterpieces. People forge precious metals from the earth to create unique silhouettes with colorful gems of different kinds adding flair to their designs. This process makes jewelry, not just mere adornment, but wearable art.
These days, as we explore new technology in making jewelry pieces, creatives and designers are also pushing the boundaries of the idea of beauty that lies in jewelry, exploring new shapes, adding character, and reimagining its value. Among those who take jewelry-making to another level of art form is Manila-based visual artist Kat Reyes. Through her brand Elementari, she was able to play with her craft and create organic forms, all in all, produce pieces that “challenge our notion of preciousness.”
“The name is a nod to physical elements and ‘elementary,’ as in the basic state or essence of something,” Kat tells Style Weekend. “I'm not even into jewelry, but I could see them as tiny sculptures that were doable for me.”
A graduate of the University of the Philippines, Kat, before becoming an artist, first dipped her toes in the corporate side of the fashion industry. After completing her studies, she worked as part of the marketing team of local brands Penshoppe and Oxygen. Though she gained a lot of experience and good friends through her job, she wasn't able to pursue her personal interests. After eight years with the brands, she did some freelance work for various companies before setting up Elementari.
Kat may not have the traditional training when it comes to design, but her passion for pop culture and music definitely helped her in making one-of-a-kind pieces. At the age of five, she started tuning into MTV. She loves the ‘90s and ‘00s scene—its music videos, fashion, and DIY craze.
“The silver tone of the Red Hot Chili Peppers' ‘Give It Away’ video. Aaliyah's crystal bra and choker. My Barbie's red-and-black checkered coat that I made. I remember things like that,” she muses.
These days, apart from her pop culture references, Kat looks at nature for her inspiration. Part of her design process is to also mirror what’s buzzing in culture and society, allowing her to create pieces with intention. From those ideas, she plays with her materials and morphs them into 3D works, one needs to look closer to appreciate every contour, twist, and combination of materials. There are always contrasting elements in her designs that make them stand out.
An example of this can be seen in her "Hardest Soft" collection. According to her, the line is about opposing characteristics and feelings existing together. Romantic pearls are married with hardware materials, chunky rocks on thin chains, and steel that is soft and moldable like fabric because it is in mesh form.
Continuing her mission of defying the notion of preciousness is her “Pura Basura” collection. Here, she reimagined materials that aren’t conventionally pretty into statement pieces that are full of color and joy.
“Some of the accounts I follow are dedicated to ugly art, ugly gardens, and bootleg stuff,” Kat shares. “I find those so interesting! I literally thought about trash, crumpled paper, and the randomness of colors and materials.”
Although Kat has a knack for using huge precious gems and metals with conventional materials, what she considers most when it comes to designing jewelry pieces is comfort.
“I want to make sure that it's not too heavy, and that it doesn't irritate or injure,” Kat explains. “And also, material cost. It can't be too expensive for me to experiment with. But my dream is to reach a point where there are no practical limitations.”
Apart from designing jewelry pieces, Kat is also part of a creative group called Artschoolnow, founded by artist Tanya Villanueva. It's an initiative that centers on care and service as an approach to artmaking. She also does tattoos on a pay-what-you-can basis during events.
“I think that takes some of the pressure off from me to perform in the usual way that professional tattoo artists do,” Kat says. “It also allows the participants and I to enjoy the playfulness and spontaneity of the tattoo experience.”
To learn more about Kat's jewelry designs, visit @elementari.ph on Instagram and at www.elementari.ph.
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