There are many instances when fashion becomes a medium of art, and the best example of this is jewelry. It takes a skilled eye, mastery of the craft, and passion to forge natural gems and precious metals into pieces that exude unparalleled beauty. When it comes to jewelry pieces imbued with striking designs, it is hard not to think of Bulgari.
Just in time for the festive season, the Roman jeweler brings its newest high jewelry collection to the Philippines. Over 70 pieces, including the label’s high-end watches, are on display at its boutique in Greenbelt 3, Makati City. Bulgari’s high jewelry line can be divided into segments, each highlighting the brand’s Roman heritage, signature techniques, and the women it designs for.
Manila Bulletin Lifestyle had the chance to preview the high jewelry collection up close, learning more about the stories behind some of the pieces while reviewing the history of the 140-year-old maison.
Our first agenda was a collection spotlighting colored gems. Dubbed “Color Treasures,” the line showcases Bulgari’s mastery of color experimentation through precious stones. One of the main inspirations for the collection is the charm of the Mediterranean, with its golden sun, turquoise-blue sea, and lively shoreline.
A standout piece in the collection is the Oleander Meandering Necklace, inspired by a flower that blooms in late spring and early summer in southern Italy. It’s a statement piece with green chrysoprase mimicking foliage and a stunning asher-cut rubellite at the center.
In addition to highlighting the vivid hues of rubellite, amethyst, topaz, tanzanite, and citrine quartz, among others, “Color Treasures” also reflects the maison’s penchant for the cabochon shape—a nod to the Seven Hills of Rome.
Pieces in the “Roman Wonders” collection draw inspiration from the architectural works of Francesco Borromini. This line focuses on the beautiful structures of the Church of Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza, where linear designs of the Renaissance merge with the curved edges of the Baroque period. Unlike “Color Treasures,” “Roman Wonders” focuses on emeralds, sapphires, and rubies.
On display in the store is one of Bulgari’s pieces from the “Monete” collection, featuring a coin bearing the image of Pegasus and the goddess Athena. Monete is an Italian term for coins, and in this collection, the maison merges history with innovation by incorporating ancient silver coins into the designs.
The thousand-year-old Greek and Roman coins from antiquities mirror, in some ways, the journey of the brand’s founder, Sotirio Bulgari, a Greek silversmith who sailed to Italy and established Bulgari in Rome in 1884.
One of Bulgari’s most recognizable creations is the Serpenti. This season, its sinuous silhouette comes in various forms—from earrings and necklaces to one-of-a-kind timepieces. Since 1948, the house has been creating pieces inspired by the snake. For Bulgari, the motif symbolizes protection, healing, power, and transformation. Over the years, it has also become an emblem of women’s empowerment, thanks to the influential women who wore it—most notably Hollywood legend Elizabeth Taylor.
In 1961, the brand created a Serpenti timepiece for the actress. That piece continues to inspire the house to produce seductive jewelry, such as the Serpenti Tubogas or the Serpenti Dragone—the latter reminiscent of Elizabeth Taylor’s 1961 timepiece.
What many may not know about the Serpenti is that it has two distinct categories. First is the Zoomorphic Serpenti with pieces literally depicting the snake’s form, such as the Seduttori earrings or the Serpenti Tubogas bracelet. Stylized Serpenti, on the other hand, reinterprets the snake’s silhouette in a more abstract form, such as the Serpenti Viper bracelet or the iconic Serpenti necklace worn by Pia Wurtzbach in her Eternally Reborn Stories interview with the brand.
The easiest way to differentiate the two is that Zoomorphic Serpenti designs have eyes, while Stylized versions do not.
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