A fine-dining restaurant’s version of batchoy, the noodle-based soup synonymous with Iloilo City, the country’s first United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization Creative City of Gastronomy, has sparked an online debate among Ilonggos.
THE deconstructed batchoy by Hapag restaurant in Makati City. (Hapag)
Hapag, a fine-dining restaurant in Makati City, posted its deconstructed rendition of batchoy in a terracotta bowl with neatly arrange noodles on one side with fried garlic, green onions, chicharon, and slice of pork.
The broth of the batchoy is not seen as it is supposedly inside a blue teapot while the puto as a side dish is also not seen.
Hapag said it wanted to “recreate that richness and pack it into a bowl half the size – encapsulating the best moments of a batchoy in just a few spoonful.”
Ilonggos were very upset with the deconstructed version as it was unrecognizable and lost touch with the humble beginnings of batchoy as food of the masses, particularly in the use of pork scraps made popular in the public market of La Paz District.
They were also upset over the very small portion as batchoy is usually known for its large servings.
Renowned Ilonggo Chef Rafael “Tibong” Jardeleza Jr. said that Hapag was a tasting only menu as the restaurant highlighted Western Visayan cuisine.
Jardeleza, who is a heritage cuisine advocate, defended Hapag and its chef Kevin Navoa for the cooking process.
“I can attest to this because it is me who guided Chef Kevin on the process on how to prepare the batchoy when he came visit Iloilo,” Jardeleza said.
“They used traditional method and ingredients in preparing the batchoy – from the meat, lawas, and the ginamos, powdered vetsin that Chef Kevin brought along with him from Iloilo, and the use of liha in their noodles that makes it very Iloilo miki. They made their own chicharon using the pork mask which has more umami flavor than just plain pork skin,” Jardeleza added.
Despite Jardeleza’s explanation, the debate escalated with name calling, debate on instant ramen noodles, and bastardizing other renowned international cuisine.
A call has been aired to be in touch with the local food experience amid the ongoing debate.
“Batchoy is the food of the masses. Just come to Iloilo –because batchoy is best served hot from the seasoned pot of the perpetual soup, and where taste matters because of the smell of the market atmosphere around you,” Ira Pahila of the National Economic and Development Authority-6 said.