By Jinggoy I. Salvador

Taipei. Search it once and the algorithm of the city’s best via the eyes of its creators will roll. Is Beitou in it? Perhaps it is, but chances are it’s for a day trip because of its easy accessibility from the city via MRT and bus service. But let me share why you should stay longer than a few hours.

Beitou is a charming district north of the bustling city. It’s a delightful destination at any time of year. Spring brings in the cherry blossoms, Summer dresses the valleys in its verdant hue, the mountains call in the hikers to tread its paths, the rivers become race tracks for dragon boats and the wetlands become a stage for birds, and come autumn it turns the scenery into fields of gold, orange, and red. But its popularity peaks when temperatures drop, when the warming and healing qualities of thermal springs and mineral baths are most sought after. The last is what Beitou is best known for.

It was during the Japanese occupation when the hot springs were discovered and a public bathhouse was built, the largest of its kind in East Asia. With this attraction, tourism and business flourished, even the unique Taiwanese cuisine came about, it is said. 

Walking the narrow streets of inner Beitou is such a treat. The scene is relaxed, unhurried, and devoid of the crowd, unlike many of Taipei’s popular areas. Quaint family-owned shops stand alongside new businesses. Streets will lead you to parks, like Beitou Fuxing Park, where a hot spring foot-soaking pool awaits to relieve tired soles—at no cost—egging you to explore farther and visit the birthplace of Taipei’s first “onsen” in the Hokoto Stream (now Beitou Stream). 

Today, the once Hokutō Public Bathhouse is the Beitou Hot Spring Museum whispering stories of the past along its halls and dipping pools. Beside it is the Beitou Library rising with pride with its impressive eco-friendly architectural features that earned its accolade as Taiwan’s first certified green building. 

A little farther away is the breathtaking Beitou Thermal Valley blanketed by sulfuric steam all year round.

Exploring new paths for some time, the aroma and flavor of food will be the sweet, pacifying music to a growling gut. There is no shortage of restaurants and neighborhood eateries in the area, a few may even surprise you with the distinguishing red marks bearing a star, the Michelin Man licking his lips, or a recommendation. Peng Lai is acknowledged by Michelin for its good cooking. It would be when pork ribs are marinated for 20 hours before deep-frying to crispy-on-the-outside-tender-on-the-inside goodness. That’s just one among the many delectable dishes on the menu. You will crave for a second or even a third bout in this place. For that reason, among others, you will need a home base in Beitou. Let me point you to the Aloft Beitou Hotel.

Hop on a bus at the corner or take a quick walk to any of the two MRT stations, Aloft Beitou’s location makes it easy to tour the district and beyond it—after recharging to a full bar in the hotel’s unique urban-chic hotel retreat. The room decor is sleek and vibrant, and fitted out with thoughtful amenities, plus, it captures the impressive views of the Beitou district and the mountain range beyond its picture windows. It’s where you can plot your next destination in the neighborhood.

Before heading out, power up with the hip hotel’s tasty delights. The sumptuous breakfast at Nook will delight you with authentic local dishes alongside the international fare. But if you’re in a rush, grab a gourmet treat and a cappuccino from the self-service grab-and-go pantry and make it in time for the scheduled bus or train to the day’s destinations.

Hike trails, discover hot springs and sulfur deposits, have a selfie with Qixing, Taiwan’s tallest dormant volcano, and a few things you can do to be one with nature, these you can do with a visit to the Yangmingshan National Park, which is accessible from your home base via a quick drive.

Towards day’s end, make your way down South to Shilin Market, just when the night market is stirring to wakefulness. You get first dibs on the popular bites minus the long queues, especially at the Michelin Bib Gourmand stamped Chung Chia Sheng Jian Bao, a long-standing stall that sells pan-fried buns with pork or cabbage fillings. The buns have crispy bottoms and fluffy tops. Just around the corner is another Bib Gourmand restaurant, the Good Friend Cold Noodles, serving an elevated version of simple noodle dishes.

Exhausted? A day well spent deserves a cocktail. Wind down and have a drink at Aloft’s W XYZ(SM) Bar, bob your head to the beat of the music, and perhaps meet new friends who can share travel tips of their own.

But before heading up to your room to recharge for the night, take a stroll around the residential area beside the hotel. The neighborhood is peaceful at night, a few home-based businesses may still be open to welcome guests —a couple of restaurants, a therapist— or grab a Japanese brand ice cream at the convenience store. It’s such a treat. 

Did I take a dip in any of the hot springs? As much as I’m a big fan of “onsens,” I have to forgo a healing soak on this visit. It’s summer in Taipei, hot and humid, however, expect me to be back in this area come cold season. Beitou is beautiful.