By JINGGOY SALVADOR
A port and commercial city in Honshu Island that became one of the most visited destinations in Japan today—welcome to Osaka! What draws in the tourists? Undeniably, food tops the list. It’s not known as the culinary capital of Japan for nothing.
From food stalls to Michelin-starred restaurants and everything in between, Osaka’s food culture is something to dig into. This gave birth to the expression “kuidaore,” which translates to “spending on food (also applies to fashion) until you go bust,” or “to eat until you drop.” Ironically, the proof that one is in Osaka is not a photo of any of the popular fares—takoyaki, beef, yakitori, or ramen—as these are also served throughout Japan. What is it? The shining beacon of the Dotonbori Canal, the Glico Man!
As often as I go to Japan during the cool seasons, my destinations have always been Tokyo and Kyoto since the first visit in 2009. Osaka has never called out to me. Until now. I wanted to take a peek at what the “tenka no daidokoro” (the nation’s kitchen) has to offer. What else does it have? I want to see the city from above and on the ground, immersing myself in the Kansai culture. More importantly, where should a first-timer stay?
Aside from the cuisine, Osaka also has the nightlife and cherry blossoms, art, architecture, and historical sites, and not to forget the vital facet that makes Osaka truly enticing— its accessibility.
From the international airport direct to the city center and on to the neighboring prefectures, the connection can make the most out of the trip from this city: to Nara, for the bowing deers and the world's largest bronze Buddha; Kyoto, for its geishas, bamboo forest, vermilion torii gates, and World Heritage Sites; Kobe City in Hyogo, for the signature marbled beef and onsen towns; Wakayama, home to beautiful beaches; Hiroshima and its savory okonomiyaki and anago, and memorial site; and all the way to capital city. These places are easy to reach, within a short period of time, via one of the busiest train stations in Japan, the Namba Station, host to railway terminals JR, Kintetsu, Nankai, Hanshin, and three Osaka Metro subway lines.
This direct access is amped a level higher as these stations take you to a most engaging pastime—shopping. Hop off the train and enter the doors of Namba Village, an extensive shopping area consisting of two large scale complexes where Takashimaya Department Store is part of.
Steps away are the dreams Osaka’s TikTok universe are made of—jiggly cheesecakes, steaming hot ramen and yakitori, designer vintage boutiques, Don Quijote, cosmetic shops—everything about Osaka’s cuisine, the nightlife and more shopping areas, from the backstreets of Namba to Dotonbori and beyond the Nipponbashi Bridge.
Now, imagine living above this train station at the center of Osaka’s vibrant district. It’s like having your own garage in the basement with the train and subway cabs as your chauffeured rides, and the initial trip of a first timer transports them from the international airport straight to the hotel’s doorstep. Convenient, strategic, and apprehension-free.
Picture this hotel as home in Osaka, a luxurious one with five stars stamped by its name, a hotel like Swissotel Nankai Osaka. This was my home base, it can be yours, too.
This premium deluxe hotel towering above the Namba Station is special beyond the convenience of its location. Swissotel Nankai Osaka champions Japanese sensibilities and its renowned Swiss hospitality. Two worlds sharing a common creed in putting forward exceptional quality, efficiency, punctuality and respect for tradition in hospitality and service. I say, this was evident during my stay, experiencing today’s Japan within its walls.
Housed in the skyscraper are 546 posh rooms and suites thoughtfully designed for every traveler. It fuses Japanese aesthetics with modern appointments to emit a sense of place in this contemporary time. Japanese-inspired wooden details tastefully adorn the room, including a screen that unveils a panoramic view of the dynamic city as it stirs at dusk and dons dazzling lights past golden hour. Impressive?
The top level of the 147meter-high structure, one of Osaka’s tallest, offers a more breathtaking vista. On the 36th floor, where the restobar is designed with wrap-around picture windows, I devoured the view of the metropolis for breakfast and sipped it at cocktail hour. With the good food, spirits, privacy and luxury this spot offers, I saw no need to queue at any of the observation decks in the city. See Osaka from above— checked.
Like the view, dining in this tower is elevated, literally and figuratively, in its six restaurants, with cuisines that can please the most discerning palates. What Osaka can offer on ground, Swissotel can offer at an altitude—Oriental, continental, and most especially the authentic local cuisine including Osaka’s popular kushiage. The two Japanese restaurants, Hana-Goyomi and Minami, took me to other prefectures on a plate, specialties that featured locally sourced, farm fresh ingredients at the peak of its season—marbled beef that’s so tender to the bite, freshly caught seafood tasting sweet on the palate, organic grains and vegetables that are crisp, clean, and bright—which the Japanese chefs and sushi masters incorporate in their ever-changing seasonal menus, elevating the Japanese Teppanyaki and Kaiseki dining experience. And the sweet stuff? Japanese confections are never too sweet and the pastry chef lives up to the tradition. Just like the savories, pastries are created by what the current season yields, which keeps the Gourmet Shop fans curious on what the chef will whip up next. Exquisite Japanese food—checked.
From minding Japanese dining etiquette to shaking off the formality on the same floor, Nambar10 is a uniquely-designed social venue inspired by Den Den Town, Dotonbori, and Amerikamura, reflecting the dynamic, vibrant and quirky city of Osaka. The bar took me to a nostalgic trip to the era when arcade games, mirrored balls and disco dance floors were the hottest items. On special events, the rainbow flag waves and drag queens take to the stage to the crowd’s delight.
I took my sweet time exploring Osaka, just one or two sites a day. From my home base, everything on my list was a train or subway ride away: Nara and its World Heritage Sites, the luxury shopping avenue of Mido-suji in Shinsaibashi and high-end malls of Umeda, Nakanoshima Museum of Art. At night, I chose to explore the areas on foot, peeking at popular and gate-kept eateries, bars and boutiques from the busiest passages to the back alleys of Namba, Dotonburi, and Shinsaibashi. Historic sites, local-favorite ramen and takoyaki tourist crowd-free restos, and Japanese designer brand shopping—checked.
Spent after hours of exploration, this exhausted soul and sole needed a treat. There was no need to step out and head far for a soothing time in an onsen. The hotel’s Japanese bath, a satisfying alternative, did the trick. This, along with the sauna, spa and indoor swimming pool, is on the floor entirely dedicated for health and wellness. It’s an Eden for relaxation.
Japanese-styled accommodations, Japanese bath, Japanese cuisine. Swissotel Nankai Osaka is a place to experience local lifestyle and hospitality in a modern setup. May I call it a sky-high modern-day ryokan with a touch of Swiss flair?
Five days is never enough whenever I visit any of the Japanese cities, the same applies on this first visit to Osaka. Seven days is the least number on a usual visit to immerse myself in one place. Admittedly, I will never be a TikTok superstar who can create an impressive summary of numerous spots in just three days. I salute those who can. But this old traveler still prefers to take it slow and breathe in the essence of Kansai with every step. I lived it well on my first visit to Osaka, and true, this “kitchen” is exciting in more ways than its cuisine. A second trip? I will bite at it!