Photos by RENJIE TOLENTINO
Dubbed the "Mother of All Philippine Textiles,” piña threads into every weave
the Filipino story, capturing the nation’s history down to the artisans who bring it to life. Creating it demands an arduous, time-consuming process, from cultivating Red Spanish pineapples to extracting the fibers and weaving them together to create a fabric adorned with signature callado embroidery. This is what designer Lulu Tan-Gan aims to spotlight in her “Crafting Fashion” collection during the 2024 Red Charity Gala.
But Lulu’s love for piña goes far beyond its ethereal beauty. She shared that she has long worn her father’s barong, a traditional men’s shirt made of piña textile, and has admired designer Barge Ramos’ creative interpretations of the barong
“This was also a way for me to innovate what’s ours—the traditional craft of textile weaving—into contemporary use,” Lulu tells Manila Bulletin Lifestyle. “Tradition thrives when it evolves through contemporary participation, blending the old with the new, to keep piña alive and relevant.”
To do that, she incorporated printing, pleating, smocking, and embroidery techniques, adding motion and texture to the beloved textile. Through her collection, she showcases the heritage of the Philippines’ three major island groups: the piña of the Visayas, Kalinga prints from Luzon, and Mandaya motifs from Mindanao. With the help of Dr. Patty Araneta of the Mahalina Foundation, Lulu gave new life to piña through natural dyeing.
The first pieces on the runway were
occasion wear featuring suits, boleros, and modern Filipiniana styles in striking silhouettes and illusions. The collection took an edgy turn as Kalinga motif-printed pieces paraded down the runway. Lulu also managed to give piña a youthful look, tinting pieces in soft blue and pink, styling them with bold accessories, and adding delicate embellishments. Concluding her 60-piece collection was a series of capes, caftans, and gowns, illustrating how piña can create “haute culture” fashion.
“I also aim to redefine the intangible essence of piña, elevating it as a luxury fabric. True luxury is defined by natural, understated elegance. It transcends trends and ostentation, focusing instead on the inherent beauty of materials and craftsmanship,” Lulu says. “This kind of luxury embraces simplicity and authenticity, allowing the quality of the fabric and the artistry of the design to speak for themselves. It invites appreciation for subtleties, such as the texture of a finely woven fabric or the delicate details in a handcrafted piece.”
Launched in 2009 by philanthropists Tessa Prieto and Kaye Tinga, the Red Charity Gala has provided a platform for award-winning Filipino fashion designers to showcase their finest collections and raise funds for organizations like Hope for Lupus Foundation, the Philippine Red Cross, and Assumption High School Batch 1981 Foundation. In its 2024 edition, the gala raised ₱5.25 million through its auction.
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