Will tourists give Zamboanga a chance?

In the city now reigns uninterrupted peace, one which locals have
not known in years


At a glance

  • For a time, being a Zamboangueño meant becoming a member of a diaspora that never hoped to see their beloved homeland again.


By CARLO GUEVARRA

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WHAT A VIEW Zamboanga Port and the stunning view of the setting sun

I remember those days when Zamboanga City was known as both the gateway to conflict zones in Mindanao due to the presence of military bases, as well as the occasional mass bombing or armed raid. On national television, reporters have always indicated “Zamboanga” as the source of their reports. As a result, the city’s name has been synonymous with trouble and destruction in the Filipino psyche.


As a matter of fact, I was there during the Zamboanga Siege back in 2013. I remember watching the telltale red tracers at night from my house, which was just two to three kilometers away from the battle site. I could recall my mamang talking about rationing our canned food and butchering our chickens. There were even times we had to stand watch in front of our house and be on the lookout for looters or other lawless elements.

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A PERFECT MIX The city where the old and the new come together in a tapestry of cultures


Throughout the siege, I could hear the din of artillery and ordnance, as well as the cacophony of sounds made by rifles, rockets, and mortars. At a young age, I learned the difference between a light tank, an infantry fighting vehicle (IFV), and an armored personnel carrier (APC). While many Filipinos would all classify them as tanks, our proximity to conflict made sure we would learn the difference firsthand.


My papang also used to scare me by saying that if I stayed outdoors after 7 p.m., bad people would come and kidnap me in exchange for ransom. It wasn’t an empty threat for children. The problem was that there were indeed monthly cases of kidnapping in the early 2000s. As a result, life generally ended at around eight or nine in the evening back then. The pueblo would be nearly devoid of human activity, with only the occasional police or military patrol on the street. Instead, the sounds of migratory birds communicating with each other and dropping their excretion to the ground was the norm back then.

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A HEROIC MONUMENT A silent witness to the heroism of Moros and Christians who fought for the country


In those days, it was hard to believe that peace could even be attained. Many, especially the rich and the landed gentry of Zamboanga, fled the city, never to come back again.


For a time, being a Zamboangueño meant becoming a member of a diaspora that never hoped to see their beloved homeland again. Those who remained tried to survive amid the blood, chaos, and conflict that was happening all around them.

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A PORTAL THROUGH TIME Valderossa Street provides a beautiful glimpse of the past through its old buildings


Today, it seems that those days are nothing but myths of a distant, indecipherable past.


It’s generally safe to stay outdoors until midnight and even beyond. You can find a coffee shop or a cafe that will accommodate you and your friends while talking about the latest fashion trend on Instagram or the latest local hangout being promoted by your local vlogger on YouTube and TikTok. There’s a Starbucks branch in the center of the city, and more and more people, especially the younger generations, would hang out at places like Pasonanca (known for its expansive greenery, wildlife, and food), Paseo del Mar, and even the old but venerable promenade at RT Lim Boulevard, which is but a stone’s throw away from the pueblo itself.

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A COLONIAL PAST Plaza Pershing gives a glimpse of the US' heritage


Night markets are now a common thing—they are jampacked with both locals and visitors who scour the stores for delicious delicacies and cheap deals. More and more people from Luzon and Visayas are traveling to the city not just for business, but for tourism as well. Even better, due to the city’s location as a jumping point, places like Dapitan, Sulu, Basilan, and Tawi-Tawi are more accessible now, though it remains to be seen whether the local shipping companies would add more trips to keep up with this new influx of local tourists.


While it has been known for its unique pink beaches, diverse and colorful culture, sumptuous cuisine, and unique Latin heritage even back in the day, it is only in recent years that the city has been able to showcase these attractions to the wider Filipino audience.


Heck, there’s SM City now in the middle of Zamboanga City. KCC, the Mindanao-based department store chain, is standing strong near the city’s airport with endless crowds of shoppers every day. The old barter chains are teeming with people who want to buy goods imported from nearby Malaysia and Indonesia.


As for me, it is amazing to see that the scars of war are nothing but a distant memory. This is what everyone has been hoping and praying for over the past decade, and even the young are happily dreaming about new opportunities and bringing new ideas to their beloved hometown.


It’s great to have uninterrupted peace for once—and to enjoy the economic and social progress that comes with it. I’m hoping that this tranquility will be here to stay for the years and generations to come.