Over a century ago, the US passed the Volstead Act, a law that sparked the start of the Prohibition era. During this time, the manufacture, transportation, and sale of intoxicating liquors were banned by the federal government to lower alcohol-related crimes. This led to a rise in organized crime as prominent figures such as Al Capone started to find ways to create bootleg alcohol and put up secret bars to serve it. These secret bars were referred to as “speakeasies” due to their patrons often being asked to stay quiet to avoid attracting any unwanted attention from authorities on patrol.
While the idea of an underground establishment sounds exciting and enticing, its liquor offers were anything but. Gin started to become a quick favorite of bootleg alcohol brewers as it was easy, fast, and cheap to produce. Because most bootleggers had to make the brew in amateurish methods, the quality of the drinks was often poor, leading many to refer to it as “bathtub gin.” Certain establishments would also serve severely watered-down alcohol to try and make a profit. This led many to experiment and create different flavored mixes, leading to a cocktail revolution of sorts. One popular cocktail mix at the time was the Bee’s Knees, a drink consisting of gin mixed with lemon juice and honey to hide the former’s taste due to the bootleg drinks’ poorer taste quality. By 1933, the Prohibition era was declared a bust after the 21st Amendment was signed into effect. It is the only amendment in the US Constitution that repeals a prior amendment.
Meanwhile, in the Philippines, in 1918, just a few years before the Prohibition era went into full swing in the US, a Russified German by the name of Peter Westfall arrived in Manila. He is said to have invented the flavor formula for the famous Royal Tru-Orange soft drink in the 1920s. Over a century later, his grandson Matthew looks to him as the inspiration behind his passion project, Full Circle Craft Distillers Co. He runs it alongside his wife, Laurie. Together, they built the family-led distillery start-up in 2018 to produce its flagship spirit, Archipelago Botanical Gin. It all started with the goal of promoting the beauty of the Philippines and its wondrous array of botanicals, from tropical citrus to fresh mangoes to exotic fragrant flowers. Its numerous accolades, the latest being three gold and two master medals given at the Asian Spirits Masters 2023, stand as a testament to its high-quality drinks.
It leads one to question, how does such a quality product come to fruition? Fortunately, Full Circle has opened its doors to the public to share its commitment to authentic craft distilling. Just a short drive away from Metro Manila, near the beauty of Mt. Makiling in Calamba, Laguna, Full Circle is a wonderful destination for gin enthusiasts or those curious about the production of spirits. It’s quite an intimate tour, with the Westfalls walking guests through every step of the process, from the mixing of ingredients, sourced from small farms in different stretches of the country, all the way to the design of its Letras y Figuras art style on the labeling of each bottle by hand. A highlight from the tour is the introduction of Full Circle’s 450-liter seven-plate copper still, a marvelous machine seemingly pulled from a steampunk fantasy.
Nicknamed “Maddie” after the co-founders’ French bulldog, the still is computer-operated and imported from Germany. It is custom-made to cater to the precise specifications to meet the demands of Archipelago Botanical Gin’s 28-botanical recipe. Westfall recalls how he even had to demonstrate to the makers of the machine that he knew how to use the special device before it was sold to him. He mentioned that the device had no manual and that it would only be sold to people experienced in handling such delicate machinery.
Guests would also be happy to see Full Circle’s dedication to sustainability. Old barrels used for aging alcohol are later turned into furniture so that it isn’t just for one-time use. Its Gin for Good program also gives a percentage of profits to help conserve and protect endangered Philippine wildlife in partnership with the Katala Foundation in Palawan.
Of course, what’s a distillery tour without a taste of its offerings? Every ticket, priced at ₱1,800 per head, comes with a welcoming cocktail, special discounts on their spirits, and access to distillery exclusives like the new handcrafted 700ml bottles, seasonal releases, gift boxes, and merch.
“I’ve been here for 40 years and I’ve explored most of the country, but I have just scratched the surface,” says Westfall after being asked about what the Philippines has that other countries selling similar drinks don’t. “This country is so deep, and so rich, so varied, with how many language groups, how many cultures, how many different sort of microclimates, how many different islands we have that we’ve never even seen… This country just never stops giving. There is so much to explore and discover and I feel like we’re literally just beginning.”
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