Since time immemorial, jewelry has always held an enchanting allure for its intricate design and priceless beauty. In ancient times, jewelry was often worn as a means of either fending off evil spirits or simply to show off one’s rank or status. Nowadays, we deem it a luxury, often worn by celebrities, wealthy figures, and royalty. To tell us all about what makes jewelry so special, we spoke with Nanis Italian Jewels co-founder and creative designer Laura Bicego during the launch of her product at the Silver Vault at Rustan’s Makati. 

How is your jewelry different?

It’s a fabbrica del lusso Italiano contemporaneo, which means factory of Italian contemporary luxury. It’s really a fusion among a high level of craftsmanship together with a more contemporary view on jewelry. So there is a versatility to my jewelry. I’ve made jewelry since I was little and one of my goals is also to have a very super high level of craftsmanship. Everything is done by hand. It’s done in (an) artisanal way. 

What made you decide to venture into this business?

It came really natural for me because I’ve always been in love with jewelry and with gold, and this way you can transform a gold bar into an amazing piece of jewelry. I wanted to bring a little bit more fashionable view into jewelry.

What makes Italian jewelry stand out?

To me, even though it’s a very small country, it’s full of art, full of creativity, full of lifestyle. I come from Venice, an open-air museum, it’s amazing! The city where I live, where I belong, Vicenza, is a very important district for jewelry. (It) has been in our tradition so it’s like something you learn from childhood. I really like very much to have jewelry like this (which) takes time. Now the trend is really slow wear, slow food, I think I can put myself into slow jewelry. To make a piece like this, all of the engraving, this finishing, it’s totally handengraved.

Do you have a particular favorite stone to work with? 

Stones are really fantastic, it’s an amazing work. One of my favorite stones is the rutile quartz. Rutile quartz is a stone that (looks like it) has needles inside, it’s amazing! Each stone is different from the other. To me, it represents my philosophy and my way of thinking. I like uniqueness and this one is unique. When I do a bracelet with this and I compose the stones together, I love the fact that a woman will be the only one that has this (design). There is no way you will have exactly the same piece. 

What is your creative process like?

Everything to me is (an) inspiration. I was in Morocco, for example, it was colorful and I invented (a) new collection… it was fantastic! I like very much the interaction. I like to change things like these earrings I’m wearing, you can twist it and now (it’s all new). I like changing things like you do with clothes, each place has a different look… I like (a) different approach, sometimes with the same piece. Just think from another perspective, out of the box. Give me another sparkle, that’s what I love. 

Do you remember the first rock or stone you ever worked with?

Yes, my father’s business was a little bit more (on) gold or diamond. It was not really stones like I use. That’s why I went on my own. What fascinated me a lot when I was working, when I first approached this work, was really to see the color of the gold. To me, it’s very warm. It glows. I still remember, a fantastic memory, the first time I saw the melting process when you put the bar and it becomes liquid. I think this was what (drew me in). You start from a raw material and arrive at a finished, amazing product.

How do you choose the materials you work with?

I explore a lot. I have my supplier of stones. I like round diamonds, rough material. I’m also attracted by colors, different tones of colors. Sometimes I create my own stones. You have different layers so you can kind of create your colored stones, that’s what I do with some stones. I revamp the color. Or (I) choose amazing agates and stones that are not really known to everybody… Those are the ones that attract me more. So I buy some stones and make pieces from those stones. 

Do you outsource any of the work?

Everything is done in Italy. I have my company that produces (the work). All my people, they are with me forever. Now we also sort of have an academy where we teach new generations. It’s very important to me. 

What would you recommend as a starter piece for a new collector?

To me, my main (go-to) is (the) necklace. Necklaces or earrings. I like very much uniqueness and (the ability) to express themselves. I like when a woman wears (it to) mix and match. Go out of the box (when buying something). I like a lot of these pieces that can (let you) interact with your jewelry and transform. Transformation is really a way to evolve. 

Is that why you wanted to make your jewelry customizable?

Absolutely. I get bored very easily. You cannot buy 10 of these, there are people (who) can, but not everybody so I said to myself, “why don’t we do pieces you can really play with?” Also jewelry is something that stays with you. It’s not something you throw. It’s not like a dress [that] after a few years, you throw it. It is something that stays with you… You will give it to your children. Maybe you can wear it as a bracelet or as a belt or another interpretation. It’s an emotional gift. It’s an emotional purchase. 

Modern generations seem to be hesitant to make extravagant purchases like jewelry. How do you convince them otherwise?

Let them try and they will form (their opinion). I think about young generations. I think millennials love this concept. I think the new generations also like things they can use again. My company is really a company where we are family. I know everybody by name. We do a lot of company activities together. We celebrate if we win some award for some pieces and we celebrate all together. I really want them to feel part of the story because they are part of the story. I think that with this approach, and with versatility, and the fact that they are giving value to something that is valuable but you can also have fun with, it’s a good message to attract them. 

Nanis’ offers breathtaking collections of jewelry. You can see them for yourself over at the Silver Vault at Rustan’s Makati. www.rustans.com