The Swiss luxury brand marks its return to the runway after 20 years
In fashion, we always encounter the words “transformation” or “metamorphosis” when it comes to new releases, and it is just right. Much like the butterflies, we all enter a new stage every season, and marking the beginning of those changes are fashion weeks happening around the world. But for Fil-Am designer Rhuigi Villaseñor, the word he wants to leave everyone with as he put unveils his debut collection for Swiss luxury brand Bally is “ecdysis.”
Presented during Milan Fashion Week on Sept. 24, Rhuigi’s maiden collection for the 171-year-old brand, dubbed “Ecdysis,” redefines luxury European dressing through American eyes. Since his appointment as the new creative director of the brand early this year, the Manila-born designer has been going through Bally’s archives, studying its legacy and past design to give it a new look today.
“My relationship with the archive is very, very close to me. It’s the entire genesis and blood flow of the brand,” Rhuigi says. “The way I practice is very fluid. It’s sort of like this free hand and it’s this motion of emotion. It’s going to be key for me to tell the story through my personal lens, sort of the brand through the horizon.”
“Throughout my journey exploring the Bally archive, I’ve been inspired by the brand’s codes around art, graphic design, architecture and nature, and I’m excited to interpret this heritage with a new vision," he adds
The result of this exploration is a ready-to-wear collection for men and women that balance’s the brand’s DNA with “an innate sense of sophistication and humor.” Reflected on the pieces is Bally’s signature craft on leather, making the material look glamorous and sensual, lightweight and nostalgic. Tiger and python printed designs, sexy pajama-like pieces, and other safari-inspired separates styled with luxe double-breasted summer wool suits, aviator jackets, and classic trench coats are invitations to travel and discover the world. Made in his hometown of Los Angeles are the denim materials that are paired with Bally’s leather craftsmanship.
Rhuigi also pays homage to the Swiss traditions of watchmaking and toy-making through his accessories. Adorning his looks are chains and chokers, buckles, and bag hardware accessories. Models are seen carrying frame bags, soft pouches, hobos, and hard case maroquinerie. Completing the collection are his playful footwear designs—from crystal mesh boots and sculpted sandal heels to archival Mary-Janes with a Cuban heel.
“In fashion as in our daily lives, beauty is always linked to a sense of place and identity: Ideas and gestures we can understand and connect with on a personal level,” Rhuigi muses. “When I discovered the Bally universe, it was clear to me that my energy and my point of view would be the catalyst for a renaissance, two decades since the last Bally runway show. Placing Swiss craft and European art of living in harmony with my own American story, I’ve called this collection ECDYSIS1—a reset and a celebration of radical luxury.”
Check out Rhuigi’s “Ecdysis” collection below or watch it here:
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