A walking tour of Old Panama City
Last month, we were on a Panama Canal cruise savoring the walls of the Old City (similar to Intramuros) in the colonial city of San Felipe, seeing the incredible architecture and history of different churches and trying out Latin America’s cuisine.
Since we have just concluded Holy Week, let me share our Visita Iglesia. Our first church visit was the Iglesia de Santo Domingo, the oldest Catholic church in Cartegena, Colombia. We were on a walking tour of these beautiful centuries-old churches and ruins.
Cartagena houses over two million people and 3,000 years of history in this tropical seaside city.
Originally built in 1539, the Santo Domingo building was relocated to its present location when a huge fire destroyed Plaza de los Coches. One can feel the serenity and craftmanship that withstood four centuries of wars, raids, and natural disasters. There are detailed wooden carved figures that depict religious icons inside the church.
Inside the complex is the Arco Chato, or Flat Arch, an iconic structure that has no support. When the engineers were designing the Panama Canal to link the Pacific and the Atlantic, they were looking for potential sites in Nicaragua and Panama. They looked at the Flat Arch and concluded that Panama was not affected by earthquakes. Lo and behold, back in 2003, it collapsed, although it was quickly rebuilt due to its historical importance.
Iglesia de la Compañia de Jesús was built in 1741. Once a school (the first university of Panama), it was destroyed in a fire in 1781, then severely damaged in an earthquake in 1882. With the expulsion of the Jesuits by the Spanish King centuries ago, the ruin is currently undergoing renovation.
In front of the church is Plaza Santo Domingo where Colombian artist Fernando Botero displays his “plump” Gertrude sculpture.
Spain founded Panama City in 1519 and so we see familiar structures similar with those in the Philippines—plaza, Baroque churches, forts, art deco buildings, colonial houses, and cobbled streets. Casco Viejo is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
In the old town is the Metropolitan Cathedral, one of the largest churches in Central America. Would you believe that it took 108 years to complete it? Pope Francis visited during the World Youth Day in January 2019 and consecrated the marble altar.
In Baroque style, which was prominent at the time of construction, the two towers were encrusted with mother-of-pearl from the Pearl Islands. The stones used for the construction of the entrance wall came from the ruins of the city of Viejo. In front of the church is Plaza de la Independencia.
Our last stop was the opulent Iglesia San Jose (Church of San Jose), where the golden altar is located. When English pirate Henry Morgan attacked Panama City in 1671, the priests saved the church from the evil looters, concealing the golden altar by putting black oil and mud on it. The pirates even exclaimed how poor the church looked. The priests also convinced Morgan that the altar was stolen by another pirate. Some wise moves from the Jesuit priests in the Order of St. Augustine that time.
Today, the carved mahogany covered in gold leaf (and paint) is surrounded by crumbling ruins and attractively renovated buildings. There is also a museum that shows the nativity and religious statues.
Should one make three wishes during a first-time visit to a church? God in His goodness and bigheartedness may grant that wish but we all know there is no special favor attached to visiting a church for the first time. But we made them, anyway! Let us all have faith. Happy Easter, everyone!