Haliya, City of Dreams’ newest restaurant, serves contemporary Pinoy cuisine that reminds us of the essence of Filipino dining—food enjoyed together
Photos by the author.
Filipino dining goes beyond sustenance or flavors, but a bonding experience in which those at the dining table share food and stories. The core of Philippine dining is to bring people together. City of Dreams’ latest culinary venture, Haliya, banks on this concept, serving well-loved Filipino meals in sizes meant for sharing. From appetizers to mains and desserts, the majority of the dishes are good for two to three people.
It’s not just the idea of eating as a social affair that the new restaurant specializes in. Chef de cuisine Edmundo “Ed” San Jose elevates Filipino staples by giving them international flair so that Haliya offers something new to locals while creating a sense of familiarity to foreigners. He is the perfect man for the job, having had 24 years of experience in banqueting and all-day dining restaurant operation in the Philippines and in the Middle East.
These days, more and more food establishments are beginning to realize the importance of innovation, of how exploring the boundless possibilities of Filipino cuisine is the way to survive and thrive in the industry. Haliya is one of these restaurants that have incorporated creativity with attention to detail, technique, fresh and sustainable ingredients, and respect for tradition, all for the sake of creating a dining experience that appeals to everyone.
The place, found on the ground floor of Nüwa where Crystal Lounge and The Tasting Room used to be, is hard to miss with its huge logo by the facade. Its sophisticated interior matches the luxe theme of the hotel, with its high ceiling, huge art pieces by the wall, chandeliers, and marble tables. Among the various eye-catching artworks inside are the enormous and colorful murals by Filipino painter Yana Ofrasio.
With the 40-year-old chef leading the kitchen, Haliya pays homage to classic Filipino dishes with creative interpretations and surprising elements. City of Dreams Manila president Geoff Andres boasts that the restaurant is poised to excite the imagination of diners toward local cuisine, experienced in a refined setting that evokes the country’s elegant heritage and vibrant culture.
Some of these said dishes are the Kilawing Tanigue, ceviche a la Filipino of tanigue fillets with local sea urchin, fresh lato (sea grapes) cucumber, and water cress; Lumpiang Dinagat, four pieces of lobster and crab meat in lumpia wrapper cup, with crystal malunggay chips, kalamansi aioli, red chili floss, and aligue dip; and the Binalot na Cochi, a mélange of shredded cochinillo (suckling pig), adobo flakes, papaya atsara, red onion, butter head lettuce, jalapeño, and pork liver salsa, all in cabbage cups.
Another must-try starter is the Guisantes at Malunggay, a soup of pea and malunggay leaves with 63-degree organic egg, sunflower oil, and bits of lechon skin. Every spoonful of the slightly bitter broth grows on you.
The Haliya Adobo is the same blend of earthy and classic, savory flavors, enhanced by crispy garlic chips and made a little more buttery because of the duck liver.
For the mains, one recommendation is the Kare-Kare, 24-hour slow-cooked US Angus beef brisket with asparagus, baby Baguio petchay, crispy fried talong, crushed roasted peanuts, and bagoong alamang. As one can imagine, the meat is so tender it melts in the mouth. The Caldereta too is exceedingly soft, as it uses slow-braised Angus beef short ribs. For those looking for seafood that’s subtle, consider the Paksiw Apahap, basically pan-seared local sea bass, adlai rice, okra, pickled ampalaya, and Baguio petchay, glazed with vinegar. The Bicol Express, meanwhile, is similar to gising-gising. Instead of pork, various seafood like mussels, shrimp, lapu-lapu, clam, and squid was used.
But the most unique among the pangunahing ulam or main dishes is the Haliya Adobo, which consists of twice-cooked chicken, grilled pineapple, shallot confit, baby bok choy, marble potato, golden crispy garlic chips, adobo glaze, and foie gras! It is the same blend of earthy and classic, savory flavors, enhanced by crispy garlic chips and made a little more buttery because of the duck liver.
For dessert, the Chichingka, a marriage between cheesecake and bibingka, is a winner. More of a soufflé than a native rice cake, the six-inch treat is airy and fluffy with a strong vanilla aroma. It is topped with finely grated Philadelphia cheese and cooked over charcoal, served on the table in a burner pot. Another suggested panghimagas is the Mangga Suman, composed of coconut-mango suman with fresh mangoes and coconut crème.
Haliya encourages reservations due to limited seating and restricted capacities for indoor dining. Open daily from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m., it is located on the ground floor of City of Dreams Manila, Aseana Boulevard Corner Macapagal Avenue, Entertainment City, Parañaque City.