Catriona Gray during the National Costume show in her elaborate ensemble depicting Luzon, Visayas, and Mindanao (photo courtesy of Carlos Buendia, Jr.)
By Vennette Lailani Seprado
Months of conceptualization, preparation, and execution culminated in a dazzling show featuring the 94 contestants of the 67th edition of Miss Universe in their National Costume. The event was held at the Nongnooch International Convention and Exhibition Center in Pattaya, Thailand, on December 10.
One of the heavy favorites for the crown this year is Philippine representative Catriona Gray. Gray, 24, who won the nationals back in March has been very vocal about her interest in Philippine culture and textiles, so expectations were high after her stellar performance at the Binibining Pilipinas wearing an intricate Muslim-princess-inspired ensemble by designer Jearson Demavivas.
Gray and her team have been very secretive about her Miss Universe wardrobe. Pageant enthusiasts were kept on their toes speculating every aspect of her wardrobe including her most anticipated national costume. In various interviews days prior to her departure, she dropped hints on the theme of her costume, sending fans and followers into a guessing-game frenzy. Finally, last Monday night, Gray revealed her national costume evoking a strong sense of Filipino pride.
The initial sketches of the front and back of Catriona's costume, as drawn by the UST Fine Arts students (photo courtesy of Jearson Demavivas)
Appropriately coined Luzviminda: Magdiwang. Lumaban. Pagyamanin., Gray’s costume is a rich amalgamation of Filipino symbolisms. The country’s colorful heritage is depicted in themes and elements identified in the three major islands of Luzon, Visayas, and Mindanao. In a recent series of videos released by Gray and her team documenting their inspiration, it revealed that they traveled all over the country to meet people, observe cultures and practices, as well as consult local historians.
The one-of-a-kind costume, which is a departure from the usual Filipiniana terno, is a collaborative effort between Gray and her team. Gray and Arch. Carlos Buendia Jr., one of her mentors, conceptualized the idea last June. Buendia kept their vision aligned with his extensive knowledge of history and culture, having once been a member of Bayanihan, the National Folk Dance Company of the Philippines.
In a series of posts on his Instagram account @carlosbuendiajr, Buendia broke down the elements representing each island group. He posted: “Luzon—Magdiwang (Celebrate): The island group of Luzon is represented by the world-renowned parol/Christmas lantern from the province of Pampanga with a brass border designed and made in Apalit, Pampanga.” He added, “ inspired by designs from the Philippine Baroque Churches that were declared as UNESCO Heritage Sites.”
In a separate interview, Gray revealed that she chose the Christmas lantern because the pageant will be happening in December. The parol, which was made by Pampanga-based artisan Eric Quiwa, had more interesting details to explore. Said Buendia, “At the back of the parol is a painting lyrics from Lupang Hinirang, the Philippine National Anthem, written in Baybayin, the ancient Filipino alphabet, and which literally translates to: ‘Lupang hinirang, duyan ka ng magiting, sa manlulupig, di ka pasisiil. Sa dagat at bundok, sa simoy at sa langit mong bughaw.’”
Another eye-catching detail of the costume was a painting at the back by several University of Sto. Tomas Fine Arts graduates. According to Buendia, “The painting highlights victories, festivals, events, heroes, and national icons in a style inspired by the work of Philippine National Artist Carlos ‘Botong’ Francisco, a native of the art capital of the Philippines, Angono, Rizal in Luzon.” Demavivas was again tasked to design the sexy bodysuit to represent the Visayas. On his Instagram account @jearsond, he posted several photos documenting the sketches he made, his notes, and the details of his exquisitely embroidered garment. Patterns and motifs depicting flowers, fruits, and representations of night and day adorned the mesh bodysuit.
To explain this further, Buendia posted on his Instagram: “Visayas—Lumaban (Fight): The island group of Visayas is represented by a bodysuit with authentic ‘tattoo designs’ embellished with crystals derived from patterns used by the Pintados, who are indigenous people found in various islands in this part of the Philippines. The tattoo patterns are authentic and based the manuscript Boxer Codex written in 1590. The tattoos represent an individual’s journey and a public testimony recounting acts of combat, bravery, and strength, that perfectly represents the courageous and resilient Filipino spirit amidst the trials we face in this day and age.”
To represent Mindanao—Pagyamanin (Enrich), Gray was able to capture the vibrant culture and colors of the country’s second largest island. Shoe designer Jojo Bragais made her custom-made thigh-high boots, while stylist Justine Aliman conceptualized her overall look. Buendia further shared, “Mindanao is represented by an authentic headpiece and brass accessories from the province of South Cotabato. The boots are embroidered with different indigenous textile patterns from the southern part of the Philippines, namely Inaul, Yakan, Maranao, B’laan, Bagobo, Tausug, and T’nalak. These woven textiles express a strong belief in ancestral and natural spirits, and cultural roots of indigenous communities that remain well-preserved up to this day.”
A close-up shot of the customized thigh-high boots by Jojo Bragais shows the different textile patterns from the various indigenous communities of Mindanao (photo courtesy of Jojo Bragais)
That day, Catriona Gray’s stage presence was undeniable. Even her gestures and dance movements had cultural relevance. Buendia, her runway/dance/personality-development mentor, choreographed the number showing hand gestures done by a pre-Spanish Babaylan (priestess) at the beginning and ending of any ritual. It is said to be a means of passing good energy to one another. Gray further heightened the Filipino fans’ patriotic spirit by performing a dance depicting the four stages of a Filipina’s life: a courtship dance from the Igorot tribe, livelihood and lifestyle dance from the Mananagat of Cebu, and the Maranao/Maguindanaon singkil to signify marriage.
Catriona Gray’s remarkable display of Filipino heritage reignited interest in our history and culture. Her performance at the show trended on social media with countless sites and pages discussing her admirable attention to detail. The National Quincentennial Committee Philippines, who oversees the government’s preparation for the 500th anniversary of the Victory of Mactan, featured her on their Twitter account, an esteemed recognition for an epic endeavor to capture thousands of years of Filipino history and heritage.
The Miss Universe 2018 pageant will be held on Dec 17, 2018 in Bangkok, Thailand. For more info, go to missuniverse.com, like facebook.com/MissUniverse, follow @missuniverse on Instagram