Once upon a time a path less traveled, Cantabria on the north coast of Spain is drawing more and more attention, especially from foodies, across the world.
¿Cómo no? Bordered on the north by the Bay of Biscay, on the east by Basque Country, on the south by Castile- León, and on the west by the Asturias, it’s a picturesque place of rolling coastal hills leading up to the Cantabrian Mountains. As for food, it has much to offer, particularly seafood since the population is concentrated on the coastal areas, whereas the rest are scattered in farmsteads and hamlets, where cattle husbandry is the main livelihood.
It’s not surprising that here in Manila, half a world away, Cantabria is now a familiar word. One of our go-to chefs, Chele Gonzalez, after all, hails from Cantabria, which he describes as tierra infinita or “infinite landscape,” whose culinary treasures, drawn from its mythic waters—the Bay of Biscay is a gulf nestled in the Celtic Sea on the northeast Atlantic Ocean—as well as from its expansive, productive grasslands and mountains. As such, coupled with its rich culinary heritage, it is home to the most exquisite seafood and a variety of meat delights.
When the Westin Manila decided to have a signature Spanish restaurant on its rooftop, Chele Gonzalez fit the bill and, on top of Chele’s mind when he accepted the proposed partnership, whose aim principally is to elevate the concept of Spanish dining in Metro Manila, was to name it after his hometown, the very birthplace of many of his ideas about eating, cooking, living.
“A Spanish restaurant has always been in the plans for our hotel, and we wanted to collaborate with a chef who could bring an authentic experience to the table,” says Alexander Dietzsch, general manager of the Westin Manila. “We searched far and wide and we didn’t find anyone in Manila who is as dedicated to the concept as Chele.”
But Chele isn't the only Cantabrian in Cantabria’s kitchen. Ivan Saiz Sordo, chef de cuisine, is also from the region in northern Spain. Having worked together on a number of celebrated restaurants around the Philippines, he and Chele are making the most of the culinary roots, along with their love of seafood, that they have in common, each reminding the other of the nuances of the aromas and flavors familiar to both of them growing up in Cantabria.
“Spanish cuisine continues to evolve over time, and so do tradition and techniques,” says Chele. “Cantabria presents a unique side of Spanish cuisine and raises the bar by showcasing a blend of tradition and trends through a flavorful journey.”
Among Cantabria’s specialties, needless to say, is one-of-a-kind seafood. An open seafood display provides a central attraction in the dining area, where the freshest catch of the day is prepared right before the diners’ eyes.
The jewel on its crown of delightful seafood offerings is grilled wild turbot fish, the Rodaballo a la Parrilla, Cantabria’s signature dish. The flatfish, according to Chele, is a hero catch when caught in the violent Cantabrian waves rolling in from the Atlantic and thus, surfacing on a plate, is considered a sea gem.
“We’re putting our own touch on this ocean bounty with unique dishes like the Tosta de Anchoa y Berenjena (Cantabrian premium anchovies, baguette toast, and charred eggplant),” says Chele. “Other seafood delights include Mero al Horno con Patata Panadera (baked grouper, roasted potatoes, garlic, and parsley emulsion), Ostra dela Casa (signature oyster), Tartare de Oyster Salmon (oyster and salmon tartare, ikura, ceviche dressing), Tiradito de Pargo (sliced snapper, avocado and lime salsa, radish, and cilantro oil), and more.” If you prefer tapas, try the Chili Crab Croquetas con Mayonesa de Lima (creamy chili crab croquettes with lime mayonnaise).
But the meats too, especially the steaks, are not to be missed. The stellar standouts are the Presa Iberico con Patata y Mojos (grilled pork Iberico steak, fried marble potatoes, green and red mojos sauces) and the Chuleta Angus (grilled Angus beef rib eye with fries and shishito peppers). As for the tapas, highly recommended are the Ravioli de Carne Guisado con Espuma de Parmesano (braised beef and porcini ravioli with parmesan espuma and basil oil), the Wagyu and Ikura Toast (beef Wagyu tartare, salmon roe, brioche toast, truffle yolk), and the Solmillo Iberico “Sando” Sandwich (deep fried pork tenderloin sandwich with tonkatsu sauce and caviar).
Even to Chele, dining at Cantabria on top of the Westin Manila is a unique experience. Although what he does there is an ode to his childhood summers in the Spanish provincia after which the restaurant is named, he is open to exploring the very limits of his memories. “We take on a creative and sophisticated approach to seafood, and showcase a unique side of Spanish cuisine unknown to most, together with innovative tapas, meats, and other Spanish favorites,” he explains. “We’ve embraced a wide range of tradition and innovation across our menu. We want you to experience Spanish cuisine anew through authentic and progressive cooking as well as seafood and time-honored delicacies.”
Cantabria by Chele Gonzalez is open for dinner, from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. Call +63 962 533 7957 to book a table. westinmanilahotel.com